ZWO EAF Thoughts?
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ZWO EAF Thoughts?
If I could get a couple of opinions, it would sure help out a lot.
Thanks,
∞ AP Scopes: #1: TPO 6" f/9 RC #2: ES 102 f/7 APO #3: ES 80mm f/6 APO
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
If you are a visual observer, you may want to consider the new QHY Q-Focuser High-Precision model. (Note, they make two models, the standard and High-Precision .) The High-Precision model allows you to unlock the motor and manually focus the scope. A really nice touch that both the PA and
Scopes: Celestron EdgeHD14", Explore Scientific ED152CF & ED127 APO's, StellarVue SV70T, Classic Orange-Tube C-8, Lunt 80mm Ha double-stack solar scope.
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
So if you're going to have a need to focus the telescope without a computer connected, will your hand set see your ZWO
Graeme
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
ZWO does sell a
One of my ZWO
I figured that I would purchase the
Both copies have performed very well. Yes, they have some backlash, but so do my focusers. I use N.I.N.A and set the backlash compensation to "Overshoot" with an "Out" setting of 150 steps. I use a step size of 20 steps on both setups. This method/setting works very well for both setups producing smooth hyperbolic focus curves.
Moving to auto-focusing is a fantastic improvement over manual/Batinov focusing. You can trigger autofocuses based on time, temperature, or HFD and the repeatability is amazing.
Good luck JT!
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
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Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), ZWO OAG, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, ASI 220mm mini , IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
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https://focuser.com/motorfocus.php
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
Like others mentioned, to use the other focuser knob for visual you first need to loosen the thumb screws with a hex wrench. I don't know if there are autofocusers that don't require the user to do that.
It would be useful to have some kind of clutch that allows disengaging for visual, and also prevents running the focuser outside its limits. I have lots of scratches on the focuser knob axes as a result of going outside the range.
Other than that, the
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
HMMMM,
∞ AP Scopes: #1: TPO 6" f/9 RC #2: ES 102 f/7 APO #3: ES 80mm f/6 APO
∞ G&G Scopes: #1: Meade 102mm f/7.8 #2: Bresser 102mm f/4.5
∞ Guide Scopes: 70 & 80mm fracs -- The El Cheapo Bros.
∞ Mounts: iOptron CEM70AG, SW EQ6R, Celestron AVX, SLT & GT (Alt-Az), Meade DS2000
∞ Cameras: #1: ZWO ASI294MC Pro #2: 662MC #3: 120MC, Canon T3i, Orion SSAG, WYZE Cam3
∞ Binos: 10X50,11X70,15X70, 25X100 ∞ AP Gear: ZWO EAF and mini EFW and the Optolong L-eXteme filter
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
Jockinireland wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2023 4:35 pm I have three of the ZWO EAF's. They were easy to set up have all worked flawlessly. I drive mine, including autofocus, through APT but as Jim mentioned, if you need to focus without attaching to a PC, the hand controller is an option. Or just keep an allen key by the scope to release the grub screw that secures the focuser to the EAF.
I also planned to use the grub screw to release the coupling that drives the
Actually, I am not completely sure, but my thinking is that if I manually focused (either with a
Nah, for me, once set up for imaging, I don’t mess with it.
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), ZWO OAG, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, ASI 220mm mini , IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
It's not that difficult to re-find focus. Just put your image capture program of choice on loop, say every 2sec, and start making adjustments. When you get close to focus you will start seeing stars and be able to dial it in rather quickly. It usually takes me about 90 seconds to get back in the right neighborhood. Then I run an autofocus routine to get it precise.Juno16 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2023 5:16 pm I also planned to use the grub screw to release the coupling that drives the eaf in the event that I wanted to use the scope for visual.
Actually, I am not completely sure, but my thinking is that if I manually focused (either with a HC, grub screw release, or another disconnect mechanism, for visual, I would lose my focal point/“steps” for imaging and have to re-find focus for imaging. Somewhat tedious exercise since stars usually disappear when even slightly out of focus.
Nah, for me, once set up for imaging, I don’t mess with it.
Scopes: Celestron EdgeHD14", Explore Scientific ED152CF & ED127 APO's, StellarVue SV70T, Classic Orange-Tube C-8, Lunt 80mm Ha double-stack solar scope.
Mounts: Astro-Physics Mach One, iOptron CEM70EC Mount, iOptron ZEQ25 Mount.
Cameras: ZWO ASI2600mm Pro, ZWO 2600MC Pro, ZWO ASI1600mm
Filters: 36mm Chroma LRGB & 3nm Ha, OIII, SII, L-Pro, L-eXtreme
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That would work!AstroBee wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2023 5:52 pmIt's not that difficult to re-find focus. Just put your image capture program of choice on loop, say every 2sec, and start making adjustments. When you get close to focus you will start seeing stars and be able to dial it in rather quickly. It usually takes me about 90 seconds to get back in the right neighborhood. Then I run an autofocus routine to get it precise.Juno16 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 08, 2023 5:16 pm I also planned to use the grub screw to release the coupling that drives the eaf in the event that I wanted to use the scope for visual.
Actually, I am not completely sure, but my thinking is that if I manually focused (either with a HC, grub screw release, or another disconnect mechanism, for visual, I would lose my focal point/“steps” for imaging and have to re-find focus for imaging. Somewhat tedious exercise since stars usually disappear when even slightly out of focus.
Nah, for me, once set up for imaging, I don’t mess with it.
Shamefully, I’ve digressed to a much lazier approach.
After PA, go inside and hit the Start Sequence button!
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), ZWO OAG, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, ASI 220mm mini , IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
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I also have a Primaluce Lab Sesto Senso 2 which IMO is in a different league. You can manually re focus whilst the focuser it attached. Game changer for me.
Hope that helps
Pete
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Did you mean filter wheels, or just rotating the in-place filter wheel?
∞ AP Scopes: #1: TPO 6" f/9 RC #2: ES 102 f/7 APO #3: ES 80mm f/6 APO
∞ G&G Scopes: #1: Meade 102mm f/7.8 #2: Bresser 102mm f/4.5
∞ Guide Scopes: 70 & 80mm fracs -- The El Cheapo Bros.
∞ Mounts: iOptron CEM70AG, SW EQ6R, Celestron AVX, SLT & GT (Alt-Az), Meade DS2000
∞ Cameras: #1: ZWO ASI294MC Pro #2: 662MC #3: 120MC, Canon T3i, Orion SSAG, WYZE Cam3
∞ Binos: 10X50,11X70,15X70, 25X100 ∞ AP Gear: ZWO EAF and mini EFW and the Optolong L-eXteme filter
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I don't have a filter wheel. I use
The Sesto-Senso however doesn't lock the focuser, it's just a case of manually re focusing. It all might sound trivial but I don't find it easy doing anything mechanical in the dark.
Just to add, I have a 135mm lens with a meshed cog arrangement to focus. If I want to rotate the camera, I have to remove the whole optical train because the ZWO
I've zero experience of mono imaging but if the filters are all a similar thickness, I assume it won't throw the focus out by much.
Hope that helps, if you need any pics or vids to further explain let me know.
Pete
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Petrol wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2023 10:07 amI don't have a filter wheel. I useOSC cameras and screw in filters. For anEAF to work, it needs to be roughly in focus from the start. If I'm imaging a nebula, I use a dual band filter. For galaxies I remove it and it throws the focus a long way out. Using the ZWOEAF , I have to undo the 2 Allen screws to roughly manually focus before the imaging run. This is because the ZWOEAF shaft is locked and won't allow any focus adjustments. The same scenario applies when changing cameras.
The Sesto-Senso however doesn't lock the focuser, it's just a case of manually re focusing. It all might sound trivial but I don't find it easy doing anything mechanical in the dark.
Just to add, I have a 135mm lens with a meshed cog arrangement to focus. If I want to rotate the camera, I have to remove the whole optical train because the ZWOEAF won't allow it to rotate. If I had a Sesto-Senso on it, I could just slacken the tube rings and rotate it.
I've zero experience of mono imaging but if the filters are all a similar thickness, I assume it won't throw the focus out by much.
Hope that helps, if you need any pics or vids to further explain let me know.
Pete
Wow, Pete, that sounds like a very awkward thing to have to manually adjust focuser position between filters.
Definitely focus points are different between different filters. I have very limited experience as I only have 3 filters, a ZWO UV/IR cut, Optolong L-Enhance, and IDAS LPS D-1.
Just an idea that might or might not work for you.
When I first started using
To make things even easier when I switched filters, I started going back to a recent imaging data set and moved the focuser position (in
Now, I have skipped even that (again digressing) and just let the sequence run without doing anything with focus and letting
Also, there are settings in
I have only changed a few of the default settings like the backlash overshoot setting, the auto focuser step size, and exposure settings.
You’ve probably already tried these things, but just my experience.
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), ZWO OAG, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, ASI 220mm mini , IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
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Re: ZWO EAF Thoughts?
Thanks for the heads up Jim, I really appriciate it. The ZWO focuser is designed to be fitted to the coarse adjustement on a dual speed focuser. The Celestron scope I'm using doesn't have dual speed, just one - Mega fine. This means theJuno16 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2023 12:05 pm
Wow, Pete, that sounds like a very awkward thing to have to manually adjust focuser position between filters.
Definitely focus points are different between different filters. I have very limited experience as I only have 3 filters, a ZWO UV/IR cut, Optolong L-Enhance, and IDAS LPS D-1.
Just an idea that might or might not work for you.
When I first started using NINA, after a filter change, and before starting an imaging session, I would first manually focus (by moving the EAF focuser in the software not by “hand”) to get focus close by looping short images and looking at the star HFD’s. After doing that, I let the auto focus routine fine tune it.
To make things even easier when I switched filters, I started going back to a recent imaging data set and moved the focuser position (in NINA) to what it was set to previously for that filter. It got me close enough and when I started an imaging sequence, and the auto focus ran fine. This worked well for me since I didn’t really do anything besides moving the focuser in NINA.
Now, I have skipped even that (again digressing) and just let the sequence run without doing anything with focus and letting NINA autofocus (Hocus Focus plugin) do its thing. Even though focus positions are different between filters, auto focus has worked just fine.
Also, there are settings in NINA to expand the distance that the AF routine will move the focuser from the previous set point to begin an AF run. This could help, but will add some extra time to the AF routine.
I have only changed a few of the default settings like the backlash overshoot setting, the auto focuser step size, and exposure settings.
You’ve probably already tried these things, but just my experience.
Clear skies
Pete
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APM Astrograph 107/700, Hutech/Idas filters, NINA, Pix.
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Petrol wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2023 9:55 pmThanks for the heads up Jim, I really appriciate it. The ZWO focuser is designed to be fitted to the coarse adjustement on a dual speed focuser. The Celestron scope I'm using doesn't have dual speed, just one - Mega fine. This means theJuno16 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2023 12:05 pm
Wow, Pete, that sounds like a very awkward thing to have to manually adjust focuser position between filters.
Definitely focus points are different between different filters. I have very limited experience as I only have 3 filters, a ZWO UV/IR cut, Optolong L-Enhance, and IDAS LPS D-1.
Just an idea that might or might not work for you.
When I first started using NINA, after a filter change, and before starting an imaging session, I would first manually focus (by moving the EAF focuser in the software not by “hand”) to get focus close by looping short images and looking at the star HFD’s. After doing that, I let the auto focus routine fine tune it.
To make things even easier when I switched filters, I started going back to a recent imaging data set and moved the focuser position (in NINA) to what it was set to previously for that filter. It got me close enough and when I started an imaging sequence, and the auto focus ran fine. This worked well for me since I didn’t really do anything besides moving the focuser in NINA.
Now, I have skipped even that (again digressing) and just let the sequence run without doing anything with focus and letting NINA autofocus (Hocus Focus plugin) do its thing. Even though focus positions are different between filters, auto focus has worked just fine.
Also, there are settings in NINA to expand the distance that the AF routine will move the focuser from the previous set point to begin an AF run. This could help, but will add some extra time to the AF routine.
I have only changed a few of the default settings like the backlash overshoot setting, the auto focuser step size, and exposure settings.
You’ve probably already tried these things, but just my experience.EAF has to do several rotations to even come close to focus after removing a filter. I've tried to leave Hocus Focus to do it's thing but it just can't cope with the number of rotations. I tried increasing the step size to no avail but this could ultimately compromise a spot on focus. That said, I choose my scope in advance and tend to do various targets using the same filter. I'm working around the problem but if I had a Sesto Senso fitted to the Celestron, it would be a lot easier. Same goes with my widefield Rokinon 135mm setup but I could only buy a fitting kit for the ZWOEAF . Build quality wise, I'd say the Sesto Senso is much better as is the fitting arrangement.
Clear skies
Pete
Got you there Pete. The fine focus (mega fine) adjustment only is the killer here. Thanks for the explanation.
I guess that I will run into the same issues since I just ordered a Samyang 135 F2 lens. I plan to use the lens for regular photography to start with, then gather the stuff for
Thanks Pete and I now understand the special case with the scope focuser. The Sesto Senso would definitely be a better option for you with this scope.
Take care and thanks for the info!
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), ZWO OAG, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, ASI 220mm mini , IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
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Sky: Bortle 6-7
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