Eyepiece projection is a difficult technique and has problems with curved fields etc. I don't recommend this as a way forward.
As others have mentioned, if you move the mirror forward, the focus will be pushed out making prime focus available. However, the forward movement of the mirror and the weight of the camera will make the scope top heavy and out of balance so it will tend to fall down.
However, if you cut another hole for the focuser on the other side of the tube and a bit closer, you will also have to move the spider closer by the same amount and then turn the secondary mirror to suit. The prime focus will then be reachable by putting the camera directly on the focuser at prime focus allowing pictures of the moon. Deep sky photography requires a tracking mount and is out of reach of this scope. By moving the focus hole closer the scope will become bottom heavy and the extra weight of the camera body, if you are lucky will compensate for this and you'll end up with something that's almost in balance. Don't mount the focuser 180 deg opposite. The focuser is already at a 45 deg angle to the alt axis, you need to make the new hole about 90 degrees around the tube.
I can't tell you the exact amount to move it in but you can work it out pretty easily.
Set the focuser travel as far in as possible, attach the T2 mounting ring. The focus needs to extend at least 45mm past the mounting plane of this ring.
Cut a piece of translucent material such as kitchen baking paper, greaseproof paper or tracing paper and put it over the focuser held with an elastic band. more narrow than the focuser diameter say 1" wide.
Point the scope at the Moon then bring it to focus.
If the moon comes to focus somewhere in the focuser adjustment range, then the new hole on the other side of the tube only needs to be about 46mm closer to the primary mirror- make it 50mm.
If it doesn't come to focus, come back here for advice. It can still be done, but it gets a bit more complicated to measure and calculate.
A piece of flexible black plastic can be fixed using the existing focuser mounting holes to cover up the old hole. A cheap way is to paint a panel cut out of the side of a 3L plastic milk or orange juice bottle. If you want to get fancy, get a metalworks to roll you a panel from Ally.
The spider mounting holes need to be re-drilled the same distance closer to the primary mirror.
You will need to buy and use a 50mm extension tube in the focuser to get eyepieces to focus.
However for the most part, this uses the equipment you already have, you only need buy the 50mm extension tube which costs less than $40.
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Amateur astronomer since 1978
Astronomical interests : astrophotography, visual observing, nightscape photography, solar eclipse chasing
asteroidal occultations, nightscape astrophotography workshops
Bortle 1-2 skies, 149 E, 35 S
web site : http://joe-cali.com/
SCOPES - ATM 18" Dob, Vixen VC200L, ATM 6"f7, ED80
MOUNTS- EM-200, iEQ45, Push dobsonian with Nexus DSC
CAMERAS : Pentax K1, K5, K01 / VIDEO CAMS : TacosBD, Lihmsec