Wanting to buy a Canon DSLR

[StarBru]

Hi, everybody,

Would a Canon EOS Rebel model T27 be a good camera to start astrophotography with?

Specs are: ISO 100-6400 (H:12800) a 24.1 Megapixel CMOS (APS-C) Sensor. Built-in WIFI and 9-point AF System and AI Servo AF

The last camera I bought besides an Olympus OM-10 35mm film camera was a Nikon J1, and I have attachments to connect both of those to a scope which I have used only a few times with limited success. Also I have used my cell phone and Revolution II CCD camera for basically moon shots.

Agena Astro is having a sale on ZWO astrophotography equipment. I was eying a ZWO 32GB ASIAIR Plus Wi-Fi camera controller kit with ASI120MM-Mini Camera & 30mm f/4 Mini Guide Scope for $547. I know this would be good start for guiding, right? But then I would still need a main astro-camera and as great as the possibilities are with such a system and my EQ6-R Pro mount, it's more money than I want to spend, I'm just a beginner, and also I wouldn't have a DSLR for regular and travel photography. I'm not sure what to do.

Any help or advice?

[SkyHiker]

Hi, everybody,

I am wanting to buy a refurbished (by USA Canon) Canon EOS Rebel model T7 with an EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II Lens Kit for $250 and a refurbished EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 telephoto zoom lens for $50 more. So it's $316.79 with taxes and fees and with free shipping.

I would use this for regular and travel photography as well as trying it for beginner astrophotography. Would this be a good camera to start astrophotography with?

Specs are: ISO 100-6400 (H:12800) a 24.1 Megapixel CMOS (APS-C) Sensor. Built-in WIFI and 9-point AF System and AI Servo AF

The last camera I bought besides an Olympus OM-10 35mm film camera was a Nikon J1, and I have attachments to connect both of those to a scope which I have used only a few times with limited success. Also I have used my cell phone and Revolution II CCD camera for basically moon shots.

The T7 will be fine especially because it can be controlled remotely. I have one myself. My Fuji X-a1 is better but it can't be controlled remotely, at least not sufficiently. However, a remote timer is often all you need.

I do my comparisons at dpreview.org. Select "New studio comparison tool". Here's a comparison of a T7, Fuji X-a1, Nikon D800 and Sony A7s at 6400 ISO.

Agena Astro is having a sale on ZWO astrophotography equipment. I was eying a ZWO 32GB ASIAIR Plus Wi-Fi camera controller kit with ASI120MM-Mini Camera & 30mm f/4 Mini Guide Scope for $547. I know this would be good start for guiding, right? But then I would still need a main astro-camera and as great as the possibilities are with such a system and my EQ6-R Pro mount, it's more money than I want to spend, I'm just a beginner, and also I wouldn't have a DSLR for regular and travel photography. I'm not sure what to do.

Any help or advice?

I read other posts for instance this one that claim that ASIAir limits your choice of cameras. Here's a ZWO link of DSLRs but do your own research, and check between ASIAir and ASIair Plus, I'm not an exxpert.

ASIAir builds on INDI and presumably uses indilib. Instead of being limited by the client, you can get a Raspberry Pi 4 and install KStars/Ekos, or you can get StellarMate that is the identical ready-made product. Both of them accept all Indi drivers without restriction. Look at what kind of power you need, in my case I got a Pegasus mini box to offload the USB3 ports of the Pi though often you don't need it.

I have an ASI120MM that works fine but is a bit noisy. I recently got a QHY5III200M that adds IR sensitivity, doesn't break the bank and performs better. Instead of a guide scope check out OAGs. They are not super expensive and prevent flexure issues. To get enough stars, the guide camera I described works best. For instance, the QHY5III200M is listed for $309 and the QHY OAG-M that has a helical focuser is $209. That combined is less than your quote. However: while OAGs work fine with astro cameras, many field flatteners and coma correctors use 55 mm backfocus, so this may not work with a DSLR. You may not want to buy a field flattener for a DSLR in combination with an OAG if you will get an astro cam eventually.

I have made several purchases to get started only to be replaced with other gear once I got more advanced. For instance, a ASI2600MM and MC to replace my DSLR, a QHY5III200M + QHY OAG-M to replace my Orion MMAG set, a Losmandy G11 to replace my AVX (or complement perhaps). In the end, I could have bought the right gear at once and save the extra expenses.

You can start with a DSLR, a remote timer, a ASI120MM mini plus guide scope and use a laptop for autoguiding if you want to see if this hobby is for you. Or you can skip the DSLR and move to an astro camera and perhaps an OAG. You sure have a fine mount that can accommodate advanced equipment.

[StarBru]

Thank you, Henk!

I edited my original post because I can probably find a cheaper Canon T7 elsewhere. I'm thinking for now I just need to keep it as simple as possible. There's so much to know and I need to take it in baby steps!

I've been seduced by all the beautiful images here on the forum, and I know how much work and time goes into achieving those images. I would be happy to just get some acceptable images through my own efforts!

[StarBru]

I'm currently watching Forest Tanaka's astrophotography videos on YouTube as recommended here in the Astrophotography forum soon after TSS started up. I'm trying to learn all I can from the videos.

[JayTee]

Hi Bruce,

You may want to peruse this article on an inexpensive setup that has the potential to capture stunning images and I would call this setup still a "baby step".

See what you think.
viewtopic.php?t=3129

By the way, I use the Canon T3i as my DSLR of choice. So a T7 should work just fine.

Cheers,

[StarBru]

Hi Bruce,

You may want to peruse this article on an inexpensive setup that has the potential to capture stunning images and I would call this setup still a "baby step".

See what you think.
viewtopic.php?t=3129

By the way, I use the Canon T3i as my DSLR of choice. So a T7 should work just fine.

Cheers,

Thanks, JT, I actually already read this earlier! I really like the results you had and the design and build of the wedge is genius!

[Juno16]

I think that starting AP with a Canon dslr would be a great choice!

I believe that the T7 has an sdk that will be supported by most image acquisition applications.

I started with a Nikon D3300 (no sdk-software developement kit). An sdk allows image aquisition apps to "talk" and enables communication. Since my D3300 had no sdk, my only option was DigicamControl which is free and allowed my D3300 to capture images. I started slow and learned each conquest one at a time and was thrilled with each one!

I ended up buying a Nikon D5300 on Ebay and astro modifying it (LifePixel) before I moved to a dedicated astrocam (OSC) and I most likely won't move to mono (but who knows).

Of course, you could start with a dedicated astro camera, but you can get great images (especially broadband) of many targets (galaxies and some nebulae) with a stock dslr. And, you can use it for normal terrestrial photography.

There are so many aspects of AP to learn. Starting slowly with a dslr will get you there and also allow you to really enjoy the "small" conquests along the way. Learning how to polar align, focus with a Batinov mask, rough acquisitions that will be amazing!

This is how I got into AP. Slowly and very enjoyably.

The whole process to where I am now took about 5-6 years and I absolutely have had a blast!

Best of luck Bruce!

[Juno16]

Another point. Do you plan to shoot wide field with the camera lens? Or, do you plan to use a telescope?

Shooting with a camera lens is a lot of fun and can produce amazing results. With your EQ-6, you might not need to guide for short exposures.

The easiest way to start with a telescope (imo) would be with a short focal length scope. Lots of DSO's are very large and require a wide field. To capture multiple DSO's in a single image is fun. Also, imaging at lower focal lengths is much easier on guiding requirements. You can use a simple guiding setup like a ZWO mini guide scope/ASI120mm. Works great.

I have only used a refractor successfully with a dlsr. I tried to start imaging with my F5 Newtonian, but I couldn't reach focus (not enough inward travel). So, if you plan to use a Newtonian, be aware that unless it is an astrograph, there could be issues reaching focus with the stock focuser without changing focusers or moving the primary mirror.

I'm sure that there are folks here that can help setting up a dslr with other types of scopes.

[SkyHiker]

I found a review by Ed Ting of an 8" Meade Schmidt-Newtonian who used it successfully with a DSLR. Aside from the LXD55, the main weak point of that 2003 version is the focuser that has an unacceptable amount of play. He also mentioned the difficulty of finding a 2" adapter for that thread. Ed gave it to some tinkerers, and they returned it 2 weeks later in excellent shape, suitable for AP and all, especially collimated (apparently it was out of collimation when he received it). If a DSLR works for an 8" then I think it will work for a 10" as well. Ed's reviews are always great fun to watch.

[StarBru]

I found a review by Ed Ting of an 8" Meade Schmidt-Newtonian who used it successfully with a DSLR. Aside from the LXD55, the main weak point of that 2003 version is the focuser that has an unacceptable amount of play. He also mentioned the difficulty of finding a 2" adapter for that thread. Ed gave it to some tinkerers, and they returned it 2 weeks later in excellent shape, suitable for AP and all, especially collimated (apparently it was out of collimation when he received it). If a DSLR works for an 8" then I think it will work for a 10" as well. Ed's reviews are always great fun to watch.

I have watched that video! He mentioned the 2" adapter for the scope was missing when he received it. I have the 2" adapter that came with the scope. (I bought it new/old stock.). Also, I own two 10" SN OTA's. Crazy, I know! (The 2nd OTA I bought because it had a JMI case, and an upgraded JMI motorized focuser already installed.)

He did say at the end, that even with the stock focuser with the unacceptable amount of play, he was able to attach his Canon T3i DSLR with a 1.25" adapter that surprisingly didn't vignette and produced some great images. I'm just hoping either my OTA'a are not too much out of collimation and if they are, I can correct it.

[SkyHiker]

He did say at the end, that even with the stock focuser with the unacceptable amount of play, he was able to attach his Canon T3i DSLR with a 1.25" adapter that surprisingly didn't vignette and produced some great images. I'm just hoping either my OTA'a are not too much out of collimation and if they are, I can correct it.

I think his friends tightened up the focuser for him. The focuser must be solid because tilt is very noticeable. Collimation should not be a big deal if you know how to use a laser collimator.

[pakarinen]

Might be useful:

https://astrophotography.app/EOS.php

[StarBru]

Might be useful:

https://astrophotography.app/EOS.php

Thanks for this and I hope one day I can use this info! I am embarrassed to say I have not been able to start any astrophotography let alone observe as much as I'd like. I have some new health issues that are sidelining me at this time. Hopefully, I can overcome them enough to soon enjoy my love of the night sky again.

[SkyHiker]

Thanks for this and I hope one day I can use this info! I am embarrassed to say I have not been able to start any astrophotography let alone observe as much as I'd like. I have some new health issues that are sidelining me at this time. Hopefully, I can overcome them enough to soon enjoy my love of the night sky again.

Sorry to hear that. I hope you recover soon. I am sidelined myself as well recovering from minor surgery, it looks like the end is in sight (of the recovery process, I mean).

You have quite a collection of gear! You have a nice EQ6-R and Schmidt-Newt. That could work for visual and AP. Add a DSLR with remote timer, coma corrector and guide scope and you are in business. An 80- or 102-mm triplet would be a safer way to start but I don't see anything in your collection that can fill that role, most of it looks like grab and go visual stuff.

I am slowly getting rid of gear that I don't need any longer, for instance I gave an LXD55 and 10" Coulter Odyssey away for free. The 10" because I have a Z12 too. If I look at what I use I still have too much. The more AP gear you have the harder it becomes to switch scopes. I am now figuring out how to move my EAF auto-focuser over to my ES127CF and ES80ED, for instance.

From that perspective a simple DSLR is more flexible. With an astro camera you need a complete computerized high-speed setup because it has no local storage. I always looked at a 6D, I see them on EBay now for below $400. Hopefully you can resume the hobby soon.

[Baurice]

Might be useful:

https://astrophotography.app/EOS.php

Thanks for this and I hope one day I can use this info! I am embarrassed to say I have not been able to start any astrophotography let alone observe as much as I'd like. I have some new health issues that are sidelining me at this time. Hopefully, I can overcome them enough to soon enjoy my love of the night sky again.

I haven't been able to get out much recently, due to a heavy cold, so I get where you are coming from.

Whilst I am hoping for a new telescope for my next big birthday in 2025, I have a DSLR, which I attach to a telescope but most of my shots are taken with my DSLR (Nikon D3200) and 18-55mm or 70-300mm lenses and a 35-80mm lens to cover the gap between the first two. I like to think I get some good results with my setup but I know I've barely scratched the surface of what can be done. My advice is to experiment with free processing tools, like GIMP, Registax, Sequator, Deep Sky Stacker and Autostakkert, to name a few.