CLS or UHC?

[Graeme1858]

So, the next item to procure is a light pollution filter. There appears to be a bewildering array of different types!




Should I go for CLS or UHC?

Should I go for Cyan, Yellow, Green or Magenta?

Should I go for £150.00 (Astronomik) or £40.00 (Svbony)?

Will they all do a good job?

Any input gratefully received before I sign the cheque!

Regards

Graeme

[JayTee]

I am now not a fan. As of the middle of last year all our street lights are now LEDs. Granted they're shielded, but they are still LEDs. So my only recourse now is to adjust my exposure length to accommodate my current level of LP.

Cheers,
JT

[Graeme1858]

I am now not a fan. As of the middle of last year all our street lights are now LEDs. Granted they're shielded, but they are still LEDs. So my only recourse now is to adjust my exposure length to accommodate my current level of LP.

Cheers,
JT

We have some LED white light around about, a lot from Tilbury docks across the other side of the Thames estuary but the towns to the South and the industry to the East have a lot of sodium.

And can I add ADAS to the list? Is that a third type or a variant of one of the other two?

Regards

Graeme

[Dragonsfire]

I have the UHC and only used a couple times and found theirs no point using it.
Unless you want to spend allot of money I wouldnt use a filter.

[Star Dad]

With the new LEDS being installed I would hold off on LP filters. I am unaware of any LP filter specifically made for the various street light temperatures. My town (ugh!) installed 5,000K lights, so I'd need that specific filter. The older High Pressure Sodium lights which were in general use were 2,200K.
Typically the preferred light is 3,000K for LEDs. I don't use a filter and find that sometimes I get problems in Star Tools. It usually wants to reduce the red by 1.38 and blue by 1.12 . But occassionaly it will do that and the stars are all green. While there are stars that are green, they are quite rare. So I have to manually adjust to get the reds, yellows, and blues back. Not a big deal and only takes a moment or two to fix. So I'd say to save your schekles until if and when someone comes out with specific color temp filters for those street lights - and even then, software can make the fix.

[UlteriorModem]

I also bought and tried a clip in LP filter on my cannon. It did not help very much at all.

In fact it causes some funky colors and possible artifacts.

I think I used it twice and is still in the box it came from somewhere. If the OP has a Cannon Body I will sell him the filter for a good price. If I can find it.

[Graeme1858]

I have the UHC and only used a couple times and found theirs no point using it.
Unless you want to spend allot of money I wouldnt use a filter.

Thanks for that Dragonfire. So, no point using it because it doesn't work or because the correction is wrong?

I'm a big fan of Trevor Jones and I've seen that video before. Whilst he says that filters can give varying results he appears to be a fan overall.

Regards

Graeme

[Graeme1858]

With the new LEDS being installed I would hold off on LP filters. I am unaware of any LP filter specifically made for the various street light temperatures. My town (ugh!) installed 5,000K lights, so I'd need that specific filter. The older High Pressure Sodium lights which were in general use were 2,200K.
Typically the preferred light is 3,000K for LEDs. I don't use a filter and find that sometimes I get problems in Star Tools. It usually wants to reduce the red by 1.38 and blue by 1.12 . But occassionaly it will do that and the stars are all green. While there are stars that are green, they are quite rare. So I have to manually adjust to get the reds, yellows, and blues back. Not a big deal and only takes a moment or two to fix. So I'd say to save your schekles until if and when someone comes out with specific color temp filters for those street lights - and even then, software can make the fix.

Cheers Star Dad. There is some LED lighting about but most of the sky glow is Mercury and Sodium.

Speaking of waiting for a bargain, I'm going to check out the post under yours!

Regards

Graeme

[Graeme1858]

I also bought and tried a clip in LP filter on my cannon. It did not help very much at all.

In fact it causes some funky colors and possible artifacts.

I think I used it twice and is still in the box it came from somewhere. If the OP has a Cannon Body I will sell him the filter for a good price. If I can find it.

Thanks Tom. Yes the OP has a very nice Canon 600D and if I don't give it a try then I'll never know!

Could you let me know which type of LP filter you have and PM me a price please.

Regards

Graeme

[UlteriorModem]

Found it...It is for an EOS so I suppose it will fit.

20200212_192011 by Tom Whit, on Flickr

https://telescopes.net/store/idas-hutec ... amera.html

pm me with an offer

[Juno16]

Hi Graeme,

I haven’t been in this hobby for long, but I just purchased the IDAS LPS-D1. Mine is of the 2” variety and not a clip in.
I have only shot two images with it so far, and I am really impressed with the results.

I basically only have the Eastern sky to image and a decent sized city to the East. Not sure of the city light source, but there is a significant lp dome. I also have sodium (I believe low pressure) street lights down my street also to the East. One street light is in my front yard about 40 feet from where I image in my backyard.

When looking through the filter (held up to the eye) the yellow Na street lamps appear blue.

I stack with DeepSkyStacker and process in Startools. I am not sure if you are familiar with Startools, but I have to only make very minor or no changes to the color balance. It looks really close by default.

I can also get longer exposure times.

I do want to ask you though, if your dslr is modified. Below is what I see on the Starzona website.

”New revised LPS-D1 design improves on the popular LPS-P2 filter by reducing reddish background cast, improving the color rendition for one-shot-color CCDs and modified DSLRs. The plot below shows the difference between the P2 and D1 filters.”

Not sure if it makes a difference or not shooting through the IDAS LPS-D1 with a modified vs. non-modified dslr, but You might want to look into that.

For my lp issues, I am very happy with this filter.

[Dragonsfire]

I have the UHC and only used a couple times and found theirs no point using it.
Unless you want to spend allot of money I wouldnt use a filter.

Thanks for that Dragonfire. So, no point using it because it doesn't work or because the correction is wrong?

I'm a big fan of Trevor Jones and I've seen that video before. Whilst he says that filters can give varying results he appears to be a fan overall.

Regards

Graeme

I found it cut out too much.