Auto polar alignment?

[Gordon]

Since I have moved, I no longer am using a pier mount. So it's back to having to do a polar alignment for a while.

It's been years since I had to do an alignment so I would like to hear what everyone is currently using in the way of software. I have an Orion EQ6g mount.

I've looked at PHD2 as I used it a long time ago to setup and check my pier mount. I was using the 'drift alignment' tool. I know they have a new version also.

Thoughts?????

[bobharmony]

I use the PHD drift alignment, and it gets me within a couple of arcminutes with about 10-15 minutes of tweaking, depending on how well I eyeballed the setup on a given night.

The newer tools in PHD2 are nice for getting in the ballpark, but I'm an old-school kind of guy

B0b

[dritter]

It's been a couple of years since I imaged with my EQ6, but when I did I used the PHD drift alignment as well.

I usually first used the polar scope to get in the ballpark.

Then I would use the polar routines in the hand controller to get closer.

And the final touches were done through the PHD drift alignment procedure.

It sounds time consuming, and it is. But with practice it is not too bad and usually I could get all this done in the last hour of twilight before actual full darkness.

[KathyNS]

I don't believe in those newfangled electronic aids for polar alignment. When I do mine, about once a year or so, I use the polar scope, followed by a PHD2 drift alignment. In the field, I just use the polar scope.

[bladekeeper]

I've been using the polar alignment routine in SharpCap. Works pretty well for me. I've been able to achieve two-minute unguided subs with that method.

That feature may only be available with the Pro version (licensed) and not the free-to-use version.

[KenGS]

I authored the two new methods in PHD2. They both let you polar align when pointing at the polar region. Polar Drift Alignment (PDA) is a quick and easy way to get a pretty good PA within about 10'. It is limited by noise from e.g. poor seeing as it relies on very small drifts. Also, it needs an enhancement to reverse the indicated correction when used with an OAG or flipped image.
Static Polar Alignment (SPA) is more accurate than PDA but not as good as classic drift alignment. It is better suited to the southern hemisphere where there are several easily identifed stars around mag 7-8 near the pole and a couple of "pointer" stars of around mag 10 within 2' of the pole.
When I need to polar align I start with PDA to get fairly close then use SPA to set the set the OTA home position and do a final PA based on the pointers. Being in the southern hemisphere thats sufficient but if I were a northerner I'd probably follow up with a classic drift alignment as the most accurate method.

[SkyHiker]

I use no computer but the camera's LCD screen and a piece of clear tape with a pinprick hole. Put the mount in the home position and take a 30 sec image while slewing around RA fast. Mark the center of the tracks on the LCD with the tape by putting the hole on the center. Then use the alt az controls to move the NCP to the hole, taking 3 sec images. The NCP can be identified from an asterism of which the closest star is about 5' away.

[yobbo89]

when i read auto polar alignment i think of an arduino with two stepper motors, one for the azimuth and one on the alt axis for the lat/left/right adjustment screws

I keep a 12mm illuminated reticle eyepiece in my kit ,it's enough for me to get me polar in under 25 mins if i ever go dslr only with no pc. phd drift alignment is my priority choice, i've never seen the south celestial pole ,i don't even think it's worth the hassle !

[Gordon]

I authored the two new methods in PHD2. They both let you polar align when pointing at the polar region. Polar Drift Alignment (PDA) is a quick and easy way to get a pretty good PA within about 10'. It is limited by noise from e.g. poor seeing as it relies on very small drifts. Also, it needs an enhancement to reverse the indicated correction when used with an OAG or flipped image.
Static Polar Alignment (SPA) is more accurate than PDA but not as good as classic drift alignment. It is better suited to the southern hemisphere where there are several easily identifed stars around mag 7-8 near the pole and a couple of "pointer" stars of around mag 10 within 2' of the pole.
When I need to polar align I start with PDA to get fairly close then use SPA to set the set the OTA home position and do a final PA based on the pointers. Being in the southern hemisphere thats sufficient but if I were a northerner I'd probably follow up with a classic drift alignment as the most accurate method.

I did look at the SPA (I haven't tried it yet). I have used PDA quite a few times to both setup and check the alignment on my pier. Since I'm familiar with it and I'm in the northern hemisphere that will probably be what I will use.

Thanks very much for your hard work on PHD2. It's a great tool that has served me well for years!

[Graeme1858]

My telescope is in the garden on a brick patio and I've countersunk three indentations in the brick in the hope that the tripod feet will be in exactly the same position each time. My pc is in the garage on the other end of 5m usb leads and I can't see the screen from the telescope so I set up with an eye piece and the hand controller. After doing a 2 star alignment and adding a few calibration stars I go through the polar alignment procedure. It's never bang on because I haven't got a reticle eye piece. Then I put a camera in, rebalance, retire to the garage and set up again using the Celestron CPWI software without using the All Star Polar Alignment routine because I can't see the screen from the, well, you know! Maybe I should try again to rope in my son to help! This week I've set up plate solving in APT but I've not used it in anger yet because it keeps raining!

Regards

Graeme