Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Lowjiber
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Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

#1

Post by Lowjiber »


When I began solar imaging a few years back, I “paid my dues” by going through the learning process by shooting at every opportunity. That’s a necessary part of learning the skills and techniques required. Those were the glory-days before the current solar minimum cycle, and the sun was literally full of opportunities… Combine that with my home in the desert that provided low humidity and an abundance of clear skies that definitely shortened the learning curve. I probably shot a hundred-and-fifty images that first year.

Jump forward to today… With solar activity at the rock-bottom of the eleven-year solar cycle, while my skills have improved, there are far fewer (maybe 90%) targets available. Surface areas like sunspots and filaments are as rare as hens’ teeth, and even proms often leave one wanting. I say that not to discourage budding solar imagers, as any kind of practice is valuable when one is learning the craft and a newbie should jump at every opportunity.

This morning promises a decent day for imaging. So, as I was going through my routine to make the decision whether-or-not to take a shot I thought I’d jot down a few things that influence my decision for those who are just starting out. These are no particular order, but common sense will guide the reader through their own process.

Equipment: It almost goes without saying, but your equipment needs to be “ready”. Keeping everything in one box will avoid fumbling around when it’s time to set up… One-stop-shopping should be your mantra. It can even come down to the little things, for example if you know where the approximate focus setting is for your scope when mounting it, you’ll avoid delays when bringing the image into focus.

Looking for “targets”: Whether you’re shooting a full disk or a particular feature, the entire process will go much smoother if you know beforehand what you’re going after and where it is located on the sun.

My first target-acquisition software is the NSO/GONG H Alpha Network Monitor (aka “GONG”) located here: http://halpha.nso.edu/ GONG consists of six Ha observatories located around the world, each shoot every minute during daylight. The little rectangle bottom-left of each observatory reveals the number of minutes since the current image was taken… the box will be green if the time is one minute prior to the current view. By left-clicking each observatory the image will the enlarged beyond full-screen… allowing one to determine what & where a potential feature resides. (Note that all scopes are oriented properly with North at the top. If you orient your cam in the same fashion, finding a feature will be much easier.)

At first glance, GONG images might appear devoid of prominences. That’s because the scopes are set at an “average” Ha wavelength. By moving your magnified view around the limb, the proms will be visible, albeit fainter than they will appear once on your laptop screen.

Surface features will be obvious in GONG. However, additional information (AR number, for example) regarding sunspots can be obtained at http://www.spaceweather.com/. By selecting the Daily Sun image on the left side, one can get not only the position but the name of sunspots… handy.

What time to shoot?: This may be obvious, but certain things should be in your plan. As the sun travels around the Earth :lol: , it will be at its highest point pretty close to noon, standard time for your time zone. Ideally, one should endeavor to shoot between 1100 & 1300hrs, local standard time. This eliminates much of the Earth’s atmosphere between you and your target.

Organization: When first learning, it used to take me an hour to get ready to image. In the desert temps, this can be miserable. From the time I uncover my aligned mount it is less than ten minutes to be ready to image, with a sip of coffee along the way. Being organized will get you there too.

Little things help. For example, I use four scopes for imaging the sun. By marking the various combinations of weights on the balance bar and knowing exactly where the balance point(s) reside for each scope/cam, I can put a scope on the mount perfectly balanced in no time. (Blue painter’s tape is your friend.)

Is the UV/IR-cut filter already residing in front of the diagonal? A note on painter’s tape will keep you from removing the diagonal to check… A little thing, but it helps.

Is your capture software “organized”? Huh? I’m not kidding. I use SharpCap, but this applies to just about every software package. Different cam settings are required when shooting a prom vice, the surface features. By having your general cam settings for each available with a touch of a “Load Settings” button, you can shift from the surface to the proms in a heartbeat. Simple, but effective.

Proms can change rapidly, whereas surface features change much more slowly. Solar rigs need to have the wavelength shifted to catch a prom and re-adjusted to do justice to the surface shot. If you are shooting a full disk, shoot the prom disk, then adjust the wavelength for the surface and shoot it. However, if you’re using a Barlow to get up-close for a “zoomed in” shot of say two different proms, shoot both proms then adjust the wavelength to shoot the accompanying surface shots. It just saves time by avoiding multiple wavelength adjustments. Besides, it’s hot if your head is stuck in that computer box.:lol:

One more thing before I quit rambling… When searching for proms on GONG or through the scope, be aware that the vast majority of proms occur at 1330, 1630, 1930, or 2230hr positions around the limb. Yes, we sometimes post proms pointing straight up (North). However, proms appearing at the north or south poles are very, very rare. That’s because of what is generally referred to as the Solar Magnetic Flux Railroad(s) that travel vertically around the east & west limbs.

If you got this far, thanks for the peek.

Clear Skies
John (Urban Astronomer) Apertura AD10 Dob; XLT 150 Dob; XLT 120EQ; Lunt Solar 60 PT/B1200; ES AR102; SW Pro 100ED; 2 SW Pro 80ED's; 90mm Eq; WO Z-61; SW 90mm Virtuso Mak; 2 Orion ST-80's; Quark-C; Cams: Polemaster, ASI120MM-S, ASI174MM & ASI174MM-C
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

#2

Post by Gordon »


Thanks John!

It's 'stickied'.
Gordon
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED80CF, Skywatcher 200 Quattro Imaging Newt, SeeStar S50 for EAA.
Mounts: Orion Atlas EQ-g mount & Skywatcher EQ5 Pro.
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Image cameras: ZWO ASI1600 MM Cool, ZWO ASI533mc-Pro, ZWO ASI174mm-C (for use with my Quark chromosphere), ZWO ASI120MC
Filters: LRGB, Ha 7nm, O-III 7nm, S-II 7nm
Eyepieces: a few.
Primary software: Cartes du Ciel, N.I.N.A, StarTools V1.4.

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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

#3

Post by Don Quixote »


This is a wonderful post John!
Thank you.
Definitely a "sticky". :-)
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Post by bladekeeper »


Awesome write-up, John! Good and practical common sense advice! :)
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Scopes: Apertura AD12 f/5; Celestron C6-R f/8; ES AR127 f/6.4; Stellarvue SV102T f/7; iOptron MC90 f/13.3; Orion ST80A f/5; ES ED80 f/6; Celestron Premium 80 f/11.4; Celestron C80 f/11.4; Unitron Model 142 f/16; Meade NG60 f/10
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

#5

Post by Altocumulus »


Thanks John!
Just call me Geoff....

I do what I do because I can, and because I want to.
It doesn't mean I know what I'm doing :mrgreen:
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Post by Solsearcher »


Some good tips there John , the only thing that I am missing is the aligned pier (yea I am Jealous !!) Good point about having the gear ready to go . I have lots of sub freezing winter weather where I live and my scopes live in a non heated garage . My thoughts on this is that I am not thermal shocking them by taking them from a warm house to a sub freezing temps and back .
My usual setup includes my 60 and 90 racked up together , I have a camera for each scope so once set up I can shoot with my 60 or 90 without leaving the laptop . I know you as well as other Quark owners use multiple scopes , do you ever mount them together to get different F/L in the same setup ?
Solar scopes (Coronado Ha) 60mm double stack , 90mm double stack , 150mm single stack .
W/L scope Williams Optic Megrez 110mm / Lunt herschel wedge .
Night scope Celestron 9.25 XLT
Mounts HEQ6 , HEQ5 , Losmandy G8
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Post by Altocumulus »


For those guys not blessed with dry hot climates!

Do you leave your full setups up in your sheltered obsy huts?

I've been a bit reluctant to leave mine outside after the recent blue/green filter issue in the Lunt BF (whether it's a humidity thing I don't know!).

Hey John, how do you disperse the clouds :D Feels like a never-ending cloud set up these past few weeks!
Just call me Geoff....

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It doesn't mean I know what I'm doing :mrgreen:
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Post by Solsearcher »


Geoff , my scopes and mounts reside in my garage , not much different than an obsy hut as far as temp and humidity goes . My scopes are capped with the blocking filters removed . My blocking filters , cameras and barlows ect are stored in a case along with a good supply of fresh desiccant packets to keep the moisture down . This is the way I have stored my blocking filters for the past 8 years . I just noticed this week that 2 of my BF's are starting to deteriorate , these are 8 years old my 3rd and still good one was purchased 4 years ago . The ITF in the Coronado blocking filters do have a limited lifespan compared to the other components , from what I understand this is due to the thermal expansion and cycling of the filter while it is being used . I can not say if leaving my BF's in the garage sped up or slowed down the deterioration , I just felt it was better to not subject my gear to sudden temperature swings from a heated home to below freezing . When the sun was more active I was also active through the winter months .
Solar scopes (Coronado Ha) 60mm double stack , 90mm double stack , 150mm single stack .
W/L scope Williams Optic Megrez 110mm / Lunt herschel wedge .
Night scope Celestron 9.25 XLT
Mounts HEQ6 , HEQ5 , Losmandy G8
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Post by Gordon »


Altocumulus wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:51 pm For those guys not blessed with dry hot climates!

Do you leave your full setups up in your sheltered obsy huts?
Geoff,

I leave my mount with the cables attached in my 'dog house' observatory. The laptop, scope, camera and guider come inside. Typically it takes about 5 minutes to set up and take down. When the temps get to 104 degrees F outside I just don't want to subject the scope to that much heat for long periods of time.
Gordon
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED80CF, Skywatcher 200 Quattro Imaging Newt, SeeStar S50 for EAA.
Mounts: Orion Atlas EQ-g mount & Skywatcher EQ5 Pro.
ZWO mini guider.
Image cameras: ZWO ASI1600 MM Cool, ZWO ASI533mc-Pro, ZWO ASI174mm-C (for use with my Quark chromosphere), ZWO ASI120MC
Filters: LRGB, Ha 7nm, O-III 7nm, S-II 7nm
Eyepieces: a few.
Primary software: Cartes du Ciel, N.I.N.A, StarTools V1.4.

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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Post by Altocumulus »


Thanks Guys, that was more or less what I was expecting - Leave the 'scopes connected up, but remove the delicate parts - which is sensible! Moreover it means you should need to make any balance adjustments.
Just call me Geoff....

I do what I do because I can, and because I want to.
It doesn't mean I know what I'm doing :mrgreen:
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Post by Altocumulus »


^^^^^Or even should NOT need ....... :D
Just call me Geoff....

I do what I do because I can, and because I want to.
It doesn't mean I know what I'm doing :mrgreen:
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

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Post by Lowjiber »


Solsearcher wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:26 pm ...
I know you as well as other Quark owners use multiple scopes , do you ever mount them together to get different F/L in the same setup ?
No, I decide beforehand what F/L I'll use for a particular feature and go with it. Summer temps in the desert typically reach 115 deg (F) in my backyard, so I keep my sessions as short as possible.

The vast majority of my sessions are with an 80mm (f/7.5) scope. My 60mm (f/5.9) gets called upon when I want to capture a full-disk, but the solar minimum has pretty well dashed that desire lately. If the sky is very clear and there is a "frilly" prom, I'll mount the 100mm (f/9).

Clear Skies
John (Urban Astronomer) Apertura AD10 Dob; XLT 150 Dob; XLT 120EQ; Lunt Solar 60 PT/B1200; ES AR102; SW Pro 100ED; 2 SW Pro 80ED's; 90mm Eq; WO Z-61; SW 90mm Virtuso Mak; 2 Orion ST-80's; Quark-C; Cams: Polemaster, ASI120MM-S, ASI174MM & ASI174MM-C
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Re: Solar Imaging... Pre-shot routines

#13

Post by Altocumulus »


I like it you bring out the big guns for the frilly bits :D
Just call me Geoff....

I do what I do because I can, and because I want to.
It doesn't mean I know what I'm doing :mrgreen:
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