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To all you DYI'ers out there: when I get the new focuser for the scope (as per my previous topic) I was thinking of doing a couple of other things: firstly spray-painting the larger collar that the focuser attaches to (with no spraying it would be blue scope, white collar and black focuser: hmmm), but more importantly I am thinking of (horror) cutting the tube down a bit so that my bino-viewer comes to focus.
Has anyone tried this, and if so are there any nasty surprises I need to be aware of? I am a bit worried about mucking up the collimation by not getting the cut perfectly square...
Again, all comments (including "You are nuts!") gratefully received.
Thanks in advance,
Dean
(PS: actually spray painting the tube might be nice too: I am not fond of the native blue. Gabby's hot orange looked interesting, or maybe ultra-metallic red or... Besides which, everyone knows that the colour of the scope makes all the difference to the views through it! )
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Painting is the easy part
Do you have an idea of how much you would need to cut the tube to make it BV friendly?
A simple wrap around and taking your time with cutting there should be no issues keeping it square.
Gabrielle See Far Sticks: Elita 103/1575, AOM FLT 105/1000, Bresser 127/1200 BV, Nočný stopár 152/1200, Vyrobené doma 70/700, Stellarvue NHNG DX 80/552, TAL RS 100/1000, Vixen SD115s/885 EQ: TAL MT-1, Vixen SXP, SXP2, AXJ, AXD Az/Alt: AYO Digi II, Stellarvue M2C, Argo Navis encoders on both Tripods: Berlebach Planet (2), Uni 28 Astro, Report 372, TAL factory maple, Vixen ASG-CB90, Vixen AXD-TR102 Diagonals: Astro-Physics, Baader Amici, Baader Herschel, iStar Blue, Stellarvue DX, Tak prism, TAL, Vixen Eyepieces: Antares to Zeiss (1011110) The only culture I have is from yogurt
Has anyone tried this, and if so are there any nasty surprises I need to be aware of? I am a bit worried about mucking up the collimation by not getting the cut perfectly square...
Clamp the tube securely. Mark the cut accurately. Stand in a balanced position to one side. Hold the saw front vertical and rear handle so that both arms are holding comfortably. Keep the saw vertical. Rock your body back and forth to cut rather than pushing with the arms. Let the saw cut the tube, don't push down, just back and forth and you'll get a nice straight cut.
Before you cut you can also measure and mark the screw holes relative to the original rear end of the tube prior to cutting.
Joe
Amateur astronomer since 1978...................Web site :http://joe-cali.com/ Scopes: ATM 18" Dob, Vixen VC200L, ATM 6"f7, Stellarvue 102ED, Saxon ED80, WO M70 ED, Orion 102 Maksutov, ST80. Mounts: Takahashi EM-200, iOptron iEQ45, Push dobsonian with Nexus DSC, three homemade EQ's. Eyepieces: TV Naglers 31, 17, 12, 7; Denkmeier D21 & D14; Pentax XW10, XW5, Unitron 40mm Kellner, Meade Or 25,12 Cameras : Pentax K1, K5, K01, K10D / VIDEO CAMS : TacosBD, Lihmsec. Cam/guider/controllers: Lacerta MGEN 3, SW Synguider, Simulation Curriculum SkyFi 3+Sky safari Memberships Astronomical Association of Queensland; RASNZ Occultations Section; Single Exposure Milky Way Facebook Group (Moderator) (12k members), The Sky Searchers (moderator)
Has anyone tried this, and if so are there any nasty surprises I need to be aware of? I am a bit worried about mucking up the collimation by not getting the cut perfectly square...
Clamp the tube securely. Mark the cut accurately. Stand in a balanced position to one side. Hold the saw front vertical and rear handle so that both arms are holding comfortably. Keep the saw vertical. Rock your body back and forth to cut rather than pushing with the arms. Let the saw cut the tube, don't push down, just back and forth and you'll get a nice straight cut.
Before you cut you can also measure and mark the screw holes relative to the original rear end of the tube prior to cutting.
Joe
Thanks Joe,
I'm good with cutting wood nice and square: but my hacksaw loves going sideways! I think some practice runs might be in order (or a new hacksaw)!
Thanks for the idea re the screw holes: if they are accurate then the actual cut is not quite so critical...
Last edited by DeanD on Sun Nov 10, 2019 6:38 am, edited 4 times in total.
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Lady Fraktor wrote: ↑Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:45 am
Painting is the easy part
Do you have an idea of how much you would need to cut the tube to make it BV friendly?
A simple wrap around and taking your time with cutting there should be no issues keeping it square.
Thanks Gabby,
I haven't done the measurements yet: waiting to see how long the new focuser is. As for "A simple wrap around and taking your time with cutting there should be no issues keeping it square." - that sounds like famous last words to me!
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Cutting the tube is quite easy, I use a angle grinder with a zip cut blade. Patience and no rushing
The rear baffle may be lost if shortening the tube but probably will not matter very much.
Gabrielle See Far Sticks: Elita 103/1575, AOM FLT 105/1000, Bresser 127/1200 BV, Nočný stopár 152/1200, Vyrobené doma 70/700, Stellarvue NHNG DX 80/552, TAL RS 100/1000, Vixen SD115s/885 EQ: TAL MT-1, Vixen SXP, SXP2, AXJ, AXD Az/Alt: AYO Digi II, Stellarvue M2C, Argo Navis encoders on both Tripods: Berlebach Planet (2), Uni 28 Astro, Report 372, TAL factory maple, Vixen ASG-CB90, Vixen AXD-TR102 Diagonals: Astro-Physics, Baader Amici, Baader Herschel, iStar Blue, Stellarvue DX, Tak prism, TAL, Vixen Eyepieces: Antares to Zeiss (1011110) The only culture I have is from yogurt
The focuser has arrived: and it took about 60 seconds to attach; a very pleasant change! It looks well made (as most GSO things seem to be for their price) and it is around 30mm shorter than the original, so I am crossing my fingers that it might even come to focus with the binoviewer (but I guess that is too much to hope for!). No cutting just yet!!!
Of course we have 100% cloud cover for the foreseeable future, so no checking of focus to infinity tonight...
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
notFritzArgelander wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2019 6:27 am
You know Baader has those optical couplers that let you reach focus without tube cutting.... Have you considered those? Just asking...
Thanks for this: but it depends on how far in the focus is. I have various attachments that give me about 35mm in travel compared to the standard. I'll have a play soon and publish my results!
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
DeanD wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2019 6:05 am
The focuser has arrived: and it took about 60 seconds to attach; a very pleasant change! It looks well made (as most GSO things seem to be for their price) and it is around 30mm shorter than the original, so I am crossing my fingers that it might even come to focus with the binoviewer (but I guess that is too much to hope for!). No cutting just yet!!!
Of course we have 100% cloud cover for the foreseeable future, so no checking of focus to infinity tonight...
Clouds will give you time to verify the new focuser is aligned with the telescope tube
Gabrielle See Far Sticks: Elita 103/1575, AOM FLT 105/1000, Bresser 127/1200 BV, Nočný stopár 152/1200, Vyrobené doma 70/700, Stellarvue NHNG DX 80/552, TAL RS 100/1000, Vixen SD115s/885 EQ: TAL MT-1, Vixen SXP, SXP2, AXJ, AXD Az/Alt: AYO Digi II, Stellarvue M2C, Argo Navis encoders on both Tripods: Berlebach Planet (2), Uni 28 Astro, Report 372, TAL factory maple, Vixen ASG-CB90, Vixen AXD-TR102 Diagonals: Astro-Physics, Baader Amici, Baader Herschel, iStar Blue, Stellarvue DX, Tak prism, TAL, Vixen Eyepieces: Antares to Zeiss (1011110) The only culture I have is from yogurt
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Gabrielle See Far Sticks: Elita 103/1575, AOM FLT 105/1000, Bresser 127/1200 BV, Nočný stopár 152/1200, Vyrobené doma 70/700, Stellarvue NHNG DX 80/552, TAL RS 100/1000, Vixen SD115s/885 EQ: TAL MT-1, Vixen SXP, SXP2, AXJ, AXD Az/Alt: AYO Digi II, Stellarvue M2C, Argo Navis encoders on both Tripods: Berlebach Planet (2), Uni 28 Astro, Report 372, TAL factory maple, Vixen ASG-CB90, Vixen AXD-TR102 Diagonals: Astro-Physics, Baader Amici, Baader Herschel, iStar Blue, Stellarvue DX, Tak prism, TAL, Vixen Eyepieces: Antares to Zeiss (1011110) The only culture I have is from yogurt
Lady Fraktor wrote: ↑Sun Nov 17, 2019 5:15 pm
BMW Satin Red with gloss black would look good.
BMW-M3-Satin-Red-Chrome-7.jpg
Hmmm... that's an idea! I might have to get the car to go with the scope...
(a bit of a move up from my silver Hyundai!)
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Paint the Hyundai and have them do the tube at the same time
Gabrielle See Far Sticks: Elita 103/1575, AOM FLT 105/1000, Bresser 127/1200 BV, Nočný stopár 152/1200, Vyrobené doma 70/700, Stellarvue NHNG DX 80/552, TAL RS 100/1000, Vixen SD115s/885 EQ: TAL MT-1, Vixen SXP, SXP2, AXJ, AXD Az/Alt: AYO Digi II, Stellarvue M2C, Argo Navis encoders on both Tripods: Berlebach Planet (2), Uni 28 Astro, Report 372, TAL factory maple, Vixen ASG-CB90, Vixen AXD-TR102 Diagonals: Astro-Physics, Baader Amici, Baader Herschel, iStar Blue, Stellarvue DX, Tak prism, TAL, Vixen Eyepieces: Antares to Zeiss (1011110) The only culture I have is from yogurt
Lady Fraktor wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2019 5:16 am
Paint the Hyundai and have them do the tube at the same time
Now why didn't I think of that...
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Update on the binoviewer: it works with the new focuser! That 35mm shorter length compared with the original focuser makes all the difference: although I have to use a 1 1/4" diagonal. I won't have to worry about cutting the tube now.
The only problem now is that it is difficult to bring the images together if I use the supplied (Williams 20mm WA) eyepieces. It seems fine with a couple of old Meade 26mm plossls. I suspect that stupid undercut on the Williams eyepieces is causing them to tip a bit: I will do some fiddling in the daytime and try to sort it out.
Now for that BMW red paint job...
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
DeanD wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2019 11:19 am
Update on the binoviewer: it works with the new focuser! That 35mm shorter length compared with the original focuser makes all the difference: although I have to use a 1 1/4" diagonal. I won't have to worry about cutting the tube now.
The only problem now is that it is difficult to bring the images together if I use the supplied (Williams 20mm WA) eyepieces. It seems fine with a couple of old Meade 26mm plossls. I suspect that stupid undercut on the Williams eyepieces is causing them to tip a bit: I will do some fiddling in the daytime and try to sort it out.
Now for that BMW red paint job...
I thought the focuser would do the trick. It enabled me to insert a 2" filter wheel in the optical path of my 150ST.
DeanD wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2019 11:19 am
Update on the binoviewer: it works with the new focuser! That 35mm shorter length compared with the original focuser makes all the difference: although I have to use a 1 1/4" diagonal. I won't have to worry about cutting the tube now.
The only problem now is that it is difficult to bring the images together if I use the supplied (Williams 20mm WA) eyepieces. It seems fine with a couple of old Meade 26mm plossls. I suspect that stupid undercut on the Williams eyepieces is causing them to tip a bit: I will do some fiddling in the daytime and try to sort it out.
Now for that BMW red paint job...
Dean,
If you measure the difference in diameter of the undercut and attach a piece of shim half that difference thick opposite the lock screw that will straighten it up. You can use an easily removable art gum glue so you can remove it if required.
Joe
Amateur astronomer since 1978...................Web site :http://joe-cali.com/ Scopes: ATM 18" Dob, Vixen VC200L, ATM 6"f7, Stellarvue 102ED, Saxon ED80, WO M70 ED, Orion 102 Maksutov, ST80. Mounts: Takahashi EM-200, iOptron iEQ45, Push dobsonian with Nexus DSC, three homemade EQ's. Eyepieces: TV Naglers 31, 17, 12, 7; Denkmeier D21 & D14; Pentax XW10, XW5, Unitron 40mm Kellner, Meade Or 25,12 Cameras : Pentax K1, K5, K01, K10D / VIDEO CAMS : TacosBD, Lihmsec. Cam/guider/controllers: Lacerta MGEN 3, SW Synguider, Simulation Curriculum SkyFi 3+Sky safari Memberships Astronomical Association of Queensland; RASNZ Occultations Section; Single Exposure Milky Way Facebook Group (Moderator) (12k members), The Sky Searchers (moderator)