You would put it to the closest point to the camera, due to the nature of of multiple parts in a imaging setup and different machining tolerance and even the relative alignment in the cameras mounting point to its chip can be out, the tolerances add up, in effect when a scope is collimated with a tool it may be true and accurate with the collimation tool and eyepiece, but when the camera is added collimation will be out from misaligned machining,the effect is tilt error, in an image this effect may be enhanced from a
Check your local hardware/paint store. There is a solution that etches aluminum to prep it for painting. You apply it, and then rinse the part. Then apply a primer and your final coat. Keeps the paint from flaking. I did this on an aluminum tube for a small reflector I made years ago. The paint stayed intact. Can't remember the name of it. Look in the section where they sell primers.
yobbo89 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 14, 2019 11:35 am
You would put it to the closest point to the camera, due to the nature of of multiple parts in a imaging setup and different machining tolerance and even the relative alignment in the cameras mounting point to its chip can be out, the tolerances add up, in effect when a scope is collimated with a tool it may be true and accurate with the collimation tool and eyepiece, but when the camera is added collimation will be out from misaligned machining,the effect is tilt error, in an image this effect may be enhanced from a coma corrector, showing corrected coma in one corner of the frame and on the other side is slightly defocused and Un corrected.
Minuscule correction is needed, 0-2mm
Not laughing. Have been using lathes for 40 years since I built my first scope. I still grossly underestimate the machining time of even the simplest build.
I mostly do bespoke things that I can't buy or something simple that will save a lot over buying something. For example, earlier this year I made a sleeve to convert a 28mm ID iOptron counterweight to an 18mm ID Takahashi counterweight. The Tak counterweights cost a few hundred, I had the iOptron counterweights and never use both mounts at the same time. The sleeve took me about an hour to machine.yobbo89 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2019 7:15 am Sometimes it's betteroff to buy the "overpriced" $60 adapter or what ever product you intend purchase,ahaha.
Every now and then I get a friend that ask me if I can make them something, and I usually tell them to save yourself money and buy it online.
Ps, still working on the other half of the adapter
Looks great!
We use this at industrial scales on aluminum parts to simulate anodizing. Looks very similar.
I copied it from another tilt ring, I can make drawing later during the weekend, it'll be in metric
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