SkyMaster colimation help needed

[Geko]

I am trying to collimate some brand new Celestron SkyMaster 25x100 binoculars, but although I found the adjustment screws, I could find no explanation on which one is for adjustment, and which is a holding screw. Can someone please explain each of the 5 screws on this picture and the correct order/procedure for adjustment? This is the right hand side:

[Lady Fraktor]

I would try with one set first, for example 4/5.
Loosen one of them 1/8 of a turn, tighten the other 1/8 of a turn.
This should move them enough to see if it is the direction you need up/ down, left/ right.

[Geko]

Thanks. I am not sure they work by loosening one and tightening the other... On these binoculars from each of the two pairs (2/3 and 4/5) one screw is completely lose, and the other is fully tightened from the factory.

[Rick2057]

Please forgive me if this is a complete waste of time and turns out to be a red herring.
I have a pair of Skymaster 15x70's that became unusable four years ago shortly after I'd bought them. I assumed the "damage" was beyond economic repair. I read about how to collimate them here
and they are perfect now. Cant believe how good they are.

[John Baars]

The collimation system of post #4 is quite a different one from the one showed in post#1

Like Lady Fraktor implies the system in post#1 is a system that works with push-pull screws. 2 & 3 form a pair and 4 &5 too.
Like her I would start with 4 &5 too.
If one of them is loose, it is bad news. You know now why the prism is out of collimation, the loose one should have been tightened. Push and pull screws work always as a pair.
It may take some time to fully master the movements the prismblock makes, but remember this thought: they were collimated when the binoculars were manufactured. And can be brought back in that condition. No panic needed.

[pakarinen]

I was never able to successfully collimate my 15x70s even with directions off the Web, at least not as far as "close enough" collimation. Good luck!