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So, all the ads for the smaller Celestron goto mounts (SLT/GT/LCM) always show the Vixen clamp tightening knob facing downwards.
Without thinking I copied this behavior. The problem is that it is difficult to get the clamp really tight to ensure that nothing slips out because the downward pointing position is awkward, at least for me!
So the other day, I said to myself, "Self, let's rotate the altitude axis until the tightening knob is facing up.
I was unsure if this would have unintended consequences during the goto alignment or the follow on slews to objects. As it turns out the mount doesn't seem to care a hoot which way the knob is pointing when you start your goto alignment. Everything worked normally just like when the knob was facing downward.
My comments filtered through your subconscious JT?
I have mentioned that it also puts the solid part of the saddle on the bottom for better support of the telescope as well as easier to tighten/ loosen the saddle clamp many times over at that other place.
Gabrielle See Far Sticks: Elita 103/1575, AOM FLT 105/1000, Bresser 127/1200 BV, Nočný stopár 152/1200, Vyrobené doma 70/700, Stellarvue NHNG DX 80/552, TAL RS 100/1000, Vixen SD115s/885 EQ: TAL MT-1, Vixen SXP, SXP2, AXJ, AXD Az/Alt: AYO Digi II, Stellarvue M2C, Argo Navis encoders on both Tripods: Berlebach Planet (2), Uni 28 Astro, Report 372, TAL factory maple, Vixen ASG-CB90, Vixen AXD-TR102 Diagonals: Astro-Physics, Baader Amici, Baader Herschel, iStar Blue, Stellarvue DX, Tak prism, TAL, Vixen Eyepieces: Antares to Zeiss (1011110) The only culture I have is from yogurt
From my experience with Az-GTi position of the knob (up or down) is also not important, but position of the scope (right hand or left hand is certainly is).
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), ZWO OAG, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, ASI 220mm mini , IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
Dog and best bud: Jack
Sky: Bortle 6-7
My Astrobin: https://www.astrobin.com/users/Juno16/
Gabrielle See Far Sticks: Elita 103/1575, AOM FLT 105/1000, Bresser 127/1200 BV, Nočný stopár 152/1200, Vyrobené doma 70/700, Stellarvue NHNG DX 80/552, TAL RS 100/1000, Vixen SD115s/885 EQ: TAL MT-1, Vixen SXP, SXP2, AXJ, AXD Az/Alt: AYO Digi II, Stellarvue M2C, Argo Navis encoders on both Tripods: Berlebach Planet (2), Uni 28 Astro, Report 372, TAL factory maple, Vixen ASG-CB90, Vixen AXD-TR102 Diagonals: Astro-Physics, Baader Amici, Baader Herschel, iStar Blue, Stellarvue DX, Tak prism, TAL, Vixen Eyepieces: Antares to Zeiss (1011110) The only culture I have is from yogurt
Bigzmey wrote: ↑Sat Aug 03, 2019 8:51 pmNow if we can only do something about those clouds...
The clouds, oh the clouds. If only you could!
This is my new reality. It shouldn't be such a surprise, I'm on a tiny island surrounded by 2500 miles of cloud producing ocean in ALL directions! Why wouldn't there be clouds? The worst part is that during the day the sky cover rarely exceeds 30%, but at night it, without fail, increases to 70%. Just look at my Clear Sky Chart in my sig below. So daytimes are basically clear and nighttimes -- SUCKS!
Obscurringly,
JT
PS, DSLRs don't like it here either, the nighttime temp rarely goes below 75°F, which means my sensor temp usually stays around 90-100°F. Can anyone say sensor NOISE! jt