Since I got the polar scope it has had runs like this and sometimes better and worse. I found that doing 2-3 plate solves seemed to improve tracking and I've spent more time balancing. I know I can achieve better initial alignment and use their PA slew function to attain better consistency. The bricks I placed in the ground are moving considerably depending on the overnight temps with the ground freezing. You don't have to worry about that.Juno16 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 31, 2019 6:03 pmSteve,mactech wrote: ↑Tue Dec 31, 2019 5:31 pmI was able to get the best guiding after using the polar alignment feature, but it sure it time consuming. The slew rate can be increased but it reduce accuracy. This was after using the polar scope to get initial alignment and it was around 5' 30" off. Obviously I need better initial PA with the scope too.
Is 1'44" good for polar error? Seems still a bit high to me. I noted where the polar scope was after the final alignment as compared to the starting point and it wasn't that much.
What kind of additional tuning needs or can be done to the AVX? I've seen PEC mentioned but never looked into what's involved.
I am not familiar with your software, but if you get guiding values similar to your posted graphic on a routine basis, personally, I wouldn’t change a thing. My guiding is usually challenging and as JT said, it is always better In the northern part of the sky.
Sometimes, I will shoot an image or two where the total arcsec rms error in PHD is under 1”. That is rare though. If I am between 1.2” and 1.5”, I am happy. From what I’ve read, this is typical performance from an AVX.
I have removed the two brass drive gears on both axis, buffed with a tooth brush and polishing compound and adjusted the clearance to minimum (no binding). I reduced tension on the RA axis so that it swings freely. I have tried pec, but it made little difference.
I am sure that I have some flexure, but I don’t fee like tackling another round of cable management right now.
I am very happy with the mount and can live with the guiding. I get pretty decent stars even when I am having a rough night.
For PA, I use Sharpcap. That is all that I use Sharpcap for. I have some bricks set in the ground to set the tripod legs on so I don’t use the polar scope anymore. Takes about 5 minutes to get 1-1 1/2”. I believe you are okay with up to 3” of PA error.
Didn’t mean to get long winded! Just my take!
I just purchased an i7-16GB-512SSD Windows laptop and will be integrating that into my workflow along with an update to RPi4 ( raspberry pi 4 ). The KStars EKOS software interface works best with a mouse/real keyboard and using the iPad interface didn't cut it for me but I am not fond of tablets. I want to use the same popular tools on the laptop too.
The PC will connect via Wifi to the raspberryPi as a hotspot using VNC, or similar screen sharing. The update to RPi4 was $65 with 4GB RAM and it will be here soon. The advantage there will be USB3 support and more memory. The RPi3 has some shortcomings with doing everything at once, such as live video from the DSLR while guiding, saving images to SD card. Removing the DSLR and changing to an AP camera will only make it worse. You can't buy a laptop with a built-in ethernet port, so I need to find USB solutions for data transfer using real wires.