Levelling Tricks?

[GCoyote]

All of my tripods have friction lock legs. Getting them level can be a bit frustrating to say the least.

Without spending getting a more expensive tripod with adjustable feet, anyone have any tips on levelling to pass along?

[Lady Fraktor]

What tripod/ mount are you using?
You can level the tripod/ mount before installing the telescope.

[KathyNS]

I start with an east-west level, adjusting the south-east or south-west leg. If I need to extend a leg, I will extend it a little farther than I need, then make the fine adjustment by lowering it. That way, I can grip the leg just below the clamp and allow it to come down in very small increments. Once I have it level in the east-west direction, I will level it north-south, adjusting the north leg.

I use a small "torpedo" level that fits in my tool kit and is not too cumbersome to use on the tripod.

[pakarinen]

Not sure this answers the question, but I use a bullseye bubble level on the top of the tripod. My Manfrotto has a bullseye built in.

[Graeme1858]

My CGX has a bubble on it. But I'm set up in the same place each time with the tripod feet in drilled indentations in the brick.

Before I had the CGX I used a smart phone bubble level app.

Regards

Graeme

[GCoyote]

What tripod/ mount are you using?
You can level the tripod/ mount before installing the telescope.

All but one is just the stock friction lock tripod that came with the Celestron or Meade economy scope it supports. Because most are older models, the tripods are a bit heavier and sturdier than the current generation of low cost scopes, at least from what I see for sale.

I also have an unidentified black anodized tripod that I use with my 90mm Mak. I've already repaired and replaced the missing and broken spreader and built a wedge for it. I figure I can do various experiments on this one and no big loss if I break something.

[smeyer8015]

Don't worry about being exact. If you're within a 1/4 bubble you will be OK.
When you polar align that will take out any leveling error.
All precise leveling does is make polar alignment easier.

[yobbo89]

if it dosn't tip over, then it's level enough

[mikemarotta]

If I understand the question in a way that others here seem not to have, my suggestion is to level the tripod before you put the scope on it. I know that the telescope has a bubble on it. But I found that the problem is having to level the instrument with the 65-pound (30 kg) telescope on it is difficult. And I am afraid of tipping the whole thing over if I lose its balance or my own.

Always keep two legs on the ground. I mean that: your two and the tripod's two of three. Adjust one leg at a time, just a little at a time. It is the only way I know.

You can use a small bubble level from the hardware store to set the tripod. Then you may not need to adjust the telescope once it is mounted.

The only other thing is to keep taking the telescope off the mount and re-adjusting which is just an invitation to disaster.

Of course, you want to do all of this in daylight or at least twilight, not in the dark.

[GCoyote]

Don't worry about being exact. If you're within a 1/4 bubble you will be OK.
When you polar align that will take out any leveling error.
All precise leveling does is make polar alignment easier.

Actually that's what got me thinking about it. And yes, I did try to do all this in the dark last week :veryconfused: with predictable results.

Several good tips here nevertheless so thanks once again!

[smeyer8015]

It really doesn't matter that much if your start level. What happens is if it's too far off level, polar alignment becomes a challenge. Adjusting altitude affects azimuth and vice-versa. You end up going back and forth between the two adjustments. Fortunately the effect gets smaller with each iteration, so eventually you get there.

[JayTee]

My only wish when leveling my tripod is that I had lobster eyes so I could keep one eye on the bubble while the other eye is concentrating on leg adjustment.

Cheers,
JT

[Kerry C.]

I'm set up in the same place each time with the tripod feet in drilled indentations in the brick.


Regards

Graeme

I do the same thing...I think from the suggestion from you.
Kerry

[gregl]

Slightly peripheral, but I've always been nervous about the friction locks. I've added bicycle seat clamps to the tripod legs as extra insurance. There is a little lip on the inside of the seat clamp that has to be removed; you can file it or grind it off. As some one above said, it's easier to set the legs a little high and lower them to get where you need to be, and this is easier with the clamps as you can set a clamp just a little below the upper leg and let it down to the clamp. See the photos below. (The clamps come in different diameters so measure your tripod leg diameters.)

[GCoyote]

Slightly peripheral, but I've always been nervous about the friction locks. I've added bicycle seat clamps to the tripod legs as extra insurance. There is a little lip on the inside of the seat clamp that has to be removed; you can file it or grind it off. As some one above said, it's easier to set the legs a little high and lower them to get where you need to be, and this is easier with the clamps as you can set a clamp just a little below the upper leg and let it down to the clamp. See the photos below. (The clamps come in different diameters so measure your tripod leg diameters.)

That could be very useful. I picked up an old Davis and Sanford photo tripod with roughly 1 1/4" tubular legs and center stalk. A few of these clamps could reduce the number of holes I'll have to drill to adapt it for a telescope.

[gregl]

By the way, If you can't find bike seat clamps to fit your tripod leg diameters, check McMaster Carr (mcmaster.com). You can put something together with shaft couplings (https://www.mcmaster.com/clamps/shaft-c ... couplings/) and cam handles (https://www.mcmaster.com/clamps/handles ... style~cam/). It won't be cheap but how much was your scope? (Or save the cost of the cam handles and just tighten the shaft collars with an Allen wrench. That's what I did on one tripod.)

[UlteriorModem]

Heh the CGX-L has a bubble level in the tripod, and another in the head. They do NOT agree with one another!

[GCoyote]

By the way, If you can't find bike seat clamps to fit your tripod leg diameters, check McMaster Carr (mcmaster.com). You can put something together with shaft couplings (https://www.mcmaster.com/clamps/shaft-c ... couplings/) and cam handles (https://www.mcmaster.com/clamps/handles ... style~cam/). It won't be cheap but how much was your scope? (Or save the cost of the cam handles and just tighten the shaft collars with an Allen wrench. That's what I did on one tripod.)

Since I get my OTAs by scouring flea markets, yard sales, and second-hand stores nearly anything I buy will cost more than the scope I use it on.

No matter. I like up-cycling old gear and figuring out what each part does by learning to fix it up. This just enhances my enjoyment of the hobby.
[It also justifies buying new tools but that's a side benefit.]

[Faith wirh Reason]

You ask for 'tips on levelling to pass along'
Bearing in mind the need to have a circular plate bubble on the tripod/telescope mount in order to level the scope, I would suggest the following:

First, initially you must manhandle the tripod and position it approximately level by using your eyes only.
Secondly, with reference to the circular plate bubble, adjust the legs according to the following geometric outcomes.

MOVING ANY LEG RADIALLY SHIFTS THE PLUMB-BOB (cir. plate level) IN THE DIRECTION OF THE LEG. This does not affect the level status of the instrument. MOVING THE LEG CIRCUMFERENTIALLY does not appreciably shift the plumb-bob (cir. plate level). By moving the legs as described above the plumb-bob (cir, plate bubble) is brought over the station mark ( centre of the cir. plate bubble), at the same ensuring that the instrument/scope is pretty close to being in a horizontal plane. The foregoing process saves a lot of time , and leads to a much more accuracy when finally adjusting the scope for Dec. and R.A. through stellar observation.

I will fully elaborate on everything above if you are at all interested in regular observing with a view to avoiding the process of stellar alignment everytime you whip out the scope for a few quick observations.

I spent the first three years of my working life training as a Land Surveyor in New Zealand ( Ministry of Works - N.Z. Government) in the mid 1970's and later progressed into civil engineering in the U.K. and Australia.

Kindest regards,
Ian Lamont.

[KathyNS]

Heh the CGX-L has a bubble level in the tripod, and another in the head. They do NOT agree with one another!

I am not a fan of those miniature circular bubble levels on mounts. I have yet to see one that was accurate. I rely on a short single-axis level from the hardware store.