That is good to hear. So I should look at the price level of the mounts to see where the LX200 is and what is above & below it.sdbodin wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 2:09 amI have the biggest Meade and theVern wrote: ↑Fri Jun 18, 2021 12:33 am
If other meade telescopes use the same level of software as I have regardless of the size of the telescope then I assume they could also have this glitch.
Are the motors & gears in the mounts for larger telescopes made of better quality materials or to closer tolerances so they are more accurate?goto accuracy is first rate. Always on target in my camerafov the first time. However, planets are a different story and it has to do with the ephemeris loaded into the scope's computer, not enough bits to be accurate after a few years, so the finder is needed.
Steve
Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
Hi Vern,
For your info, I have used Meade LX90 8" scopes off and on for many years, and I have never had a problem with their go-to capability once they are star aligned. The LX200 are a significant step up from the LX90 (in price too!), and are very accurate in my experience. I own a Celestron CPC800 which I use for outreach activities, and again I have had no issues with go-to capability. The joy of the Celestron for me is that they don't make that loud Meade go-to noise that you hear on every club observing field!
In terms of your original query, I think you will find that all of theMessier catalogue is accessible with your 5" scope, even in your light polluted sky, but some will be very faint. If you can make it to a darker sky you will notice a big difference. If you want to check out galaxies, I found the Leo Trio (M65, M66, NGC3628) were a good place to start when I first used a scope: an old Tasco 114mm reflector. They were visible with a small amount of detail from a similar sky to yours...
Don't expect to see easy spiral arms, even in M51, with a 5" scope. In fact even with an 8" scope you will need to use averted vision to see extra details.
I often use a 4" refractor when I am under a dark sky (I get to aBortle 1 sky a few times a year ), and it is amazing what you can see, but you need to train your eyes: practice makes perfect! I have even seen Saturn in a bright sunny sky with a 3" scope.
If you are having trouble with the go-to, or you think it isn't pointing where you want it, I find it is best to go-to a bright star nearby, centre it, and re-train the scope. Then at least you can be confident that the object is in thefov , even if it is really faint.
Good luck, and all the best,
Dean
For your info, I have used Meade LX90 8" scopes off and on for many years, and I have never had a problem with their go-to capability once they are star aligned. The LX200 are a significant step up from the LX90 (in price too!), and are very accurate in my experience. I own a Celestron CPC800 which I use for outreach activities, and again I have had no issues with go-to capability. The joy of the Celestron for me is that they don't make that loud Meade go-to noise that you hear on every club observing field!
In terms of your original query, I think you will find that all of the
Don't expect to see easy spiral arms, even in M51, with a 5" scope. In fact even with an 8" scope you will need to use averted vision to see extra details.
I often use a 4" refractor when I am under a dark sky (I get to a
If you are having trouble with the go-to, or you think it isn't pointing where you want it, I find it is best to go-to a bright star nearby, centre it, and re-train the scope. Then at least you can be confident that the object is in the
Good luck, and all the best,
Dean
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
Note too that you have a pretty narrow
The best possible true
- Dean
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
@DeanD Thanks for the info on LX90s. Maybe I will get a 32mm eyepiece and hope it isn't out of stock/sold out like every telescope I have seen when browsing websites.
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I haven't read all of the replies, so sorry if I am repeating any of them in any way. I aimed to see all of theVern wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 10:48 pm As my subject says, what aperture telescope would I need to see DSOs as more than smudges? I have a meade star navigator NG 125mak and the diameter is 127mm. I bought it last year and can see star clusters and the Andromeda galaxy. I have not been able to see other galaxies. At what aperture would I start to see individual stars in star clusters and would the cluster be brighter? What aperture is needed to see galaxies, say the sombrero or pinwheel galaxy?
Would a larger and more expensive telescope have a more accurate goto? I use a two star alignment on my star navigator and then click on the guided tour/tonights best. I have had go right to a target and can see it in the eye piece, other times (sometimes the same session) it will be close but I can't see the target and need to slew the telescope to find it. When I try to see the sombrero galaxy I don't know if the telescope isn't pointed at it or my telescope isn't big enough.
I am near Fenton Michigan and lightpollutionmap.info shows my location as Bortle 5.
My adaptations certainly helped, with a 32mm Plossl and 0.5x focal reducer giving me an exit pupil of about 5mm. M101 appeared 3 times larger with the LPR than without.
It is true that most
The Leo and Virgo cluster galaxies look like objects to cross off the list before you die but it is a nice challenge to track them all down.
To answer the original question, I would go for a 10" Dobsonian for purely visual use but, the chances are that you will want to photograph them one day.
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I can assure that 28" will do the job. I looked through Dennis Young's 28" single pole Newt at the RTMC at 7000', I believe I could see M51 in color. The human eye is not really meant for this kind of viewing so impatient people like me have to go for large apertures, or AP . I looked through a 22" Obsession UC recently at 7000' , easily transportable but not quite the same as the 28". The closest Obsession is 25", but you need a transportation system to take it to dark skies. I chose to go the AP route and am content with looking through other people's large light buckets at the occasional star parties. Fujinon binos were another wow factor for me, I can't recall if I looked through 100 mm or 80 mm but it beat out many telescopes. At Bortle 5 spending a lot of money for visual is not justifiable IMHO but if you can take your scope to dark skies, it would make a big difference for any kind of scope, and make worth the investment.
... Henk. Telescopes: GSO 12" Astrograph, "Comet Hunter" MN152, ES ED127CF, ES ED80, WO Redcat51, Z12, AT6RC, Celestron Skymaster 20x80, Mounts and tripod: Losmandy G11S with OnStep, AVX, Tiltall, Cameras: ASI2600MC, ASI2600MM, ASI120 mini, Fuji X-a1, Canon XSi, T6, ELPH 100HS, DIY: OnStep controller, Pi4b/power rig, Afocal adapter, Foldable Dob base, Az/Alt Dob setting circles, Accessories: ZWO 36 mm filter wheel, TV Paracorr 2, Baader MPCC Mk III, ES FF, SSAG, QHY OAG-M, EAF electronic focuser, Plossls, Barlows, Telrad, Laser collimators (Seben LK1, Z12, Howie Glatter), Cheshire, 2 Orion RACIs 8x50, Software: KStars-Ekos, DSS, PHD2, Nebulosity, Photo Gallery, Gimp, CHDK, Computers:Pi4b, 2x running KStars/Ekos, Toshiba Satellite 17", Website:Henk's astro images
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I think 'spending a lot of money' is sort of up to an individual to decide. I was thinking of 8" to 12" not 22" and up. From browsing websites I know that the cost goes up a lot for larger telescopes and accessories. Is the view through a 10" or 12" noticeably better than an 8"? If my budget is X and a larger telescope is X+20% then that would be ok. If a larger telescope is only available with a more costly mount and ends up at 2X then that would be too much.
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I,ll go with SkyHiker, darker skies wins it al the time. I have seen picture like views from M51 through a 18" dobson under dark Northern France skies. That same M51 seen from my home situation shows the arms alright, but the picture like "WOW!!!!" effect is just not there.
Any telescope that can be taken to darker skies will give lots of plessant moments.
Any telescope that can be taken to darker skies will give lots of plessant moments.
scopes: Obsession 18" classic / Tak. Epsilon 160 / Tak. FS60c / Vixen FL55ss
mount; Gemini G41 field
camera: Nikon D810A
eyepieces: Nagler 5, 7, 13mm Vixen LVW 22
All stored in a small obervatory located 2 meters below (current) sea level
mount; Gemini G41 field
camera: Nikon D810A
eyepieces: Nagler 5, 7, 13mm Vixen LVW 22
All stored in a small obervatory located 2 meters below (current) sea level
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
Like this!turboscrew wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 4:35 pm T-shirt goes over the head. The towel goes on the shoulder. :joking:
Scopes: Stellarvue: SV102ED; Celestron: 9.25" EdgeHD, 8" SCT, 150ST, Onyx 80ED; iOptron: Hankmeister 6" Mak; SW: 7" Mak; Meade: 80ST.
Mounts: SW: SkyTee2, AzGTi; iOptron: AZMP; ES: Twilight I; Bresser: EXOS2; UA: MicroStar.
Binos: APM: 100-90 APO; Canon: IS 15x50; Orion: Binoviewer, LG II 15x70, WV 10x50, Nikon: AE 16x50, 10x50, 8x40.
EPs: Pentax: XWs & XFs; TeleVue: Delites, Panoptic & Plossls; ES: 68, 62; Vixen: SLVs; Baader: BCOs, Aspherics, Mark IV.
Diagonals: Baader: BBHS mirror, Zeiss Spec T2 prism, Clicklock dielectric; TeleVue: Evebrite dielectric; AltairAstro: 2" prism.
Filters: Lumicon: DeepSky, UHC, OIII, H-beta; Baader: Moon & SkyGlow, Contrast Booster, UHC-S, 6-color set; Astronomik: UHC.
Observing: DSOs: 3106 (Completed: Messier, Herschel 1, 2, 3. In progress: H2,500: 2180, S110: 77). Doubles: 2382, Comets: 34, Asteroids: 255
Mounts: SW: SkyTee2, AzGTi; iOptron: AZMP; ES: Twilight I; Bresser: EXOS2; UA: MicroStar.
Binos: APM: 100-90 APO; Canon: IS 15x50; Orion: Binoviewer, LG II 15x70, WV 10x50, Nikon: AE 16x50, 10x50, 8x40.
EPs: Pentax: XWs & XFs; TeleVue: Delites, Panoptic & Plossls; ES: 68, 62; Vixen: SLVs; Baader: BCOs, Aspherics, Mark IV.
Diagonals: Baader: BBHS mirror, Zeiss Spec T2 prism, Clicklock dielectric; TeleVue: Evebrite dielectric; AltairAstro: 2" prism.
Filters: Lumicon: DeepSky, UHC, OIII, H-beta; Baader: Moon & SkyGlow, Contrast Booster, UHC-S, 6-color set; Astronomik: UHC.
Observing: DSOs: 3106 (Completed: Messier, Herschel 1, 2, 3. In progress: H2,500: 2180, S110: 77). Doubles: 2382, Comets: 34, Asteroids: 255
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
Both are "noticeably better", but the 12" is more so... Just think in terms of the square of the diameter. A 10" gives 56% brighter images at the same magnification (100/64), while a 12" is 125% brighter (144/64). However, if you take an 8" scope to (say) aVern wrote: ↑Mon Jun 21, 2021 8:57 pm I think 'spending a lot of money' is sort of up to an individual to decide. I was thinking of 8" to 12" not 22" and up. From browsing websites I know that the cost goes up a lot for larger telescopes and accessories. Is the view through a 10" or 12" noticeably better than an 8"? If my budget is X and a larger telescope is X+20% then that would be ok. If a larger telescope is only available with a more costly mount and ends up at 2X then that would be too much.
In terms of cost, as an example: here in Oz a dealer has an 8"
I got over the cost problems by making my own, and my 12" scope in travel mode takes up less space in the car than my 4" refractor.
All the best,
Dean
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
@DeanD That is what is need to compare to the price when I decide to buy another telescope. While the prices on dob 's are attractive I would want another catadioptric. I know that they can get pricey.
I would mostly use it at my house and a couple times a year to a slightly darker sky at the family farm.
I would mostly use it at my house and a couple times a year to a slightly darker sky at the family farm.
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
So you don't want theVern wrote: ↑Tue Jun 22, 2021 1:40 am @DeanD That is what is need to compare to the price when I decide to buy another telescope. While the prices on dob's are attractive I would want another catadioptric. I know that they can get pricey.
I would mostly use it at my house and a couple times a year to a slightly darker sky at the family farm.
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I like the way you think. 8"Vern wrote: ↑Tue Jun 22, 2021 1:40 am @DeanD That is what is need to compare to the price when I decide to buy another telescope. While the prices on dob's are attractive I would want another catadioptric. I know that they can get pricey.
I would mostly use it at my house and a couple times a year to a slightly darker sky at the family farm.
Scopes: Stellarvue: SV102ED; Celestron: 9.25" EdgeHD, 8" SCT, 150ST, Onyx 80ED; iOptron: Hankmeister 6" Mak; SW: 7" Mak; Meade: 80ST.
Mounts: SW: SkyTee2, AzGTi; iOptron: AZMP; ES: Twilight I; Bresser: EXOS2; UA: MicroStar.
Binos: APM: 100-90 APO; Canon: IS 15x50; Orion: Binoviewer, LG II 15x70, WV 10x50, Nikon: AE 16x50, 10x50, 8x40.
EPs: Pentax: XWs & XFs; TeleVue: Delites, Panoptic & Plossls; ES: 68, 62; Vixen: SLVs; Baader: BCOs, Aspherics, Mark IV.
Diagonals: Baader: BBHS mirror, Zeiss Spec T2 prism, Clicklock dielectric; TeleVue: Evebrite dielectric; AltairAstro: 2" prism.
Filters: Lumicon: DeepSky, UHC, OIII, H-beta; Baader: Moon & SkyGlow, Contrast Booster, UHC-S, 6-color set; Astronomik: UHC.
Observing: DSOs: 3106 (Completed: Messier, Herschel 1, 2, 3. In progress: H2,500: 2180, S110: 77). Doubles: 2382, Comets: 34, Asteroids: 255
Mounts: SW: SkyTee2, AzGTi; iOptron: AZMP; ES: Twilight I; Bresser: EXOS2; UA: MicroStar.
Binos: APM: 100-90 APO; Canon: IS 15x50; Orion: Binoviewer, LG II 15x70, WV 10x50, Nikon: AE 16x50, 10x50, 8x40.
EPs: Pentax: XWs & XFs; TeleVue: Delites, Panoptic & Plossls; ES: 68, 62; Vixen: SLVs; Baader: BCOs, Aspherics, Mark IV.
Diagonals: Baader: BBHS mirror, Zeiss Spec T2 prism, Clicklock dielectric; TeleVue: Evebrite dielectric; AltairAstro: 2" prism.
Filters: Lumicon: DeepSky, UHC, OIII, H-beta; Baader: Moon & SkyGlow, Contrast Booster, UHC-S, 6-color set; Astronomik: UHC.
Observing: DSOs: 3106 (Completed: Messier, Herschel 1, 2, 3. In progress: H2,500: 2180, S110: 77). Doubles: 2382, Comets: 34, Asteroids: 255
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
An 8"-12" scope will reduce your "smudges" problem somewhat but won't solve it, so try before you buy. As a rule of thumb, to see significant difference you need to go up 2" at the least, 4" is a better rule. When using scopes with a secondary mirror, subtract 2" relative to a refractor as a result of diffraction effects. The size of the secondary matters (myVern wrote: ↑Mon Jun 21, 2021 8:57 pm I think 'spending a lot of money' is sort of up to an individual to decide. I was thinking of 8" to 12" not 22" and up. From browsing websites I know that the cost goes up a lot for larger telescopes and accessories. Is the view through a 10" or 12" noticeably better than an 8"? If my budget is X and a larger telescope is X+20% then that would be ok. If a larger telescope is only available with a more costly mount and ends up at 2X then that would be too much.
... Henk. Telescopes: GSO 12" Astrograph, "Comet Hunter" MN152, ES ED127CF, ES ED80, WO Redcat51, Z12, AT6RC, Celestron Skymaster 20x80, Mounts and tripod: Losmandy G11S with OnStep, AVX, Tiltall, Cameras: ASI2600MC, ASI2600MM, ASI120 mini, Fuji X-a1, Canon XSi, T6, ELPH 100HS, DIY: OnStep controller, Pi4b/power rig, Afocal adapter, Foldable Dob base, Az/Alt Dob setting circles, Accessories: ZWO 36 mm filter wheel, TV Paracorr 2, Baader MPCC Mk III, ES FF, SSAG, QHY OAG-M, EAF electronic focuser, Plossls, Barlows, Telrad, Laser collimators (Seben LK1, Z12, Howie Glatter), Cheshire, 2 Orion RACIs 8x50, Software: KStars-Ekos, DSS, PHD2, Nebulosity, Photo Gallery, Gimp, CHDK, Computers:Pi4b, 2x running KStars/Ekos, Toshiba Satellite 17", Website:Henk's astro images
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I think your question would be better phrased "Is a MAK good for DSO " In my personal opinion would be NO, MAK's are slow by nature usually around a F:15. They are great for observing and for Planetary imaging. But as for DSO they stink. You would be better off with a Refractor or an SCT . Both have the reach and the speed needed for DSO imaging. Others may disagree with me about the MAK, but this is my opinion.
Mark E.
Mark E.
Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most! :tease:
Scope: Explorer Scientific 127CF, Askar FR600, Planewave CDK 14""
Guide Scope & Camera: ASI 174, ZWO OAG-L
Camera: QHY 268 Mono, QHY 600 Mono
Mount: Planewave L-350, Skywatcher EQ8-Rh Pro, Losmandy G11
Accessories: Moonlite Nitecrawler WR30, WR35, Eagle 3&4 Pro, QHY CFW3/7 Filterwheel, QHY Polemaster,
Software: N.I.N.A., CdC, Planewave 3, Pixinsight
Scope: Explorer Scientific 127CF, Askar FR600, Planewave CDK 14""
Guide Scope & Camera: ASI 174, ZWO OAG-L
Camera: QHY 268 Mono, QHY 600 Mono
Mount: Planewave L-350, Skywatcher EQ8-Rh Pro, Losmandy G11
Accessories: Moonlite Nitecrawler WR30, WR35, Eagle 3&4 Pro, QHY CFW3/7 Filterwheel, QHY Polemaster,
Software: N.I.N.A., CdC, Planewave 3, Pixinsight
- Vern
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I have a Celestron 9x50 r.a. c.i. finderscope on my meade starnavigator 125mak with an actual 127mm diameter. I started out with just the red dot and that wasn't close sometimes so I bought a meade series 6000 50mm guide scope. While that worked I couldn't bend my neck to see objects straight up. I then got the Celestron and used a dremel tool to slot the holes on the mount to fit my telescope. That worked and I could see through it in any direction, but it was close to the eyepiece on the telescope. Since both were 50mm I was lucky that the Celestron fit in the mount for the meade guide scope, that got it farther from the telescope eyepiece.
I understand that I have a narrowFOV and I use the finderscope to see extended DSOs . I browse different websites a couple of times a week and there isn't much of anything in stock with an aperture of 8" to 12".
I will post a picture of my telescope if I can figure it out
I understand that I have a narrow
I will post a picture of my telescope if I can figure it out
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I can still remember my first view of the Swan/Omega Nebula (M17) through my original Meade ETX 90. The contrast and detail were brilliant. Sure, you couldn't see the outer nebulosity with a 90mmlostone wrote: ↑Thu Jul 01, 2021 5:44 am I think your question would be better phrased "Is a MAK good for DSO" In my personal opinion would be NO, MAK's are slow by nature usually around a F:15. They are great for observing and for Planetary imaging. But as for DSO they stink. You would be better off with a Refractor or an SCT. Both have the reach and the speed needed for DSO imaging. Others may disagree with me about the MAK, but this is my opinion.
Mark E.
Telescopes: 12" f5 dob, Celestron CPC800, 150mmf5 Celestron achro, Tak TSA102, TV76, ETX125...
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
Binos: Steiner Wildlife XP 10x26, Swarovski 8x30 Habicht, Zeiss SFL 8x40, Vanguard Endeavour 10.5x45, Fuji FMTR-SX 10x50, Tak 22x60, Orion Resolux 15x70
Eyepieces: way too many (is that possible?), but I do like my TV 32mm plossl, 13mm Nagler T6, 27mm Panoptic and 3-6mm Nagler zoom, plus Fujiyama 18mm and 25mm orthos and Tak 7.5mm LE
- StarBru
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I have an old Meade 2045-D 102mm f/ 10 SCT that I was not really happy with until I bought a Meade 6.3 focal reducer. So maybe a focal reducer will make a small difference in finding and observing DSO 's through your 127mm MAK!
I once owned an old spur-geared C8SCT that was a nice all around scope, I should have never sold it. If I remember right, it did a pretty good job with DSO 's.
I once owned an old spur-geared C8
Bruce
Refractors: Meade AR-5 127mm f/9.3, Meade ST-80 f/5 and Meade 60mm f/12, Jason 60mm f/15 #313, Jason 60mm f/12 #306 S7, Bushnell Sky Chief III 60mm f/15.
Reflectors/Catadioptrics: Meade 10" F/4 Schmidt-Newtonian, Galileo 120mm f/8.3 Newtonian, Meade 2045D 4" f/10 SCT, Meade ETX-90EC f/13.8 & Sarblue 60mm f/12.5 Maksutov-Cassegrains.
Mounts: Skywatcher EQ6-R Pro & Meade LXD55 Equatorial mounts, ES Twilight II and Meade 2102 ALT/AZ mounts, a modified 10" SkyQuest Dobsonian mount, various 60mm EQ mounts.
Misc: Celestron 20x80mm binoculars, Revolution II Imager/accessories, & lots of optical accessories/eyepieces.
Projects: 8" f/2.9 and 65mm f/10 reflectors, Dobson-style binocular mirror mount.
Refractors: Meade AR-5 127mm f/9.3, Meade ST-80 f/5 and Meade 60mm f/12, Jason 60mm f/15 #313, Jason 60mm f/12 #306 S7, Bushnell Sky Chief III 60mm f/15.
Reflectors/Catadioptrics: Meade 10" F/4 Schmidt-Newtonian, Galileo 120mm f/8.3 Newtonian, Meade 2045D 4" f/10 SCT, Meade ETX-90EC f/13.8 & Sarblue 60mm f/12.5 Maksutov-Cassegrains.
Mounts: Skywatcher EQ6-R Pro & Meade LXD55 Equatorial mounts, ES Twilight II and Meade 2102 ALT/AZ mounts, a modified 10" SkyQuest Dobsonian mount, various 60mm EQ mounts.
Misc: Celestron 20x80mm binoculars, Revolution II Imager/accessories, & lots of optical accessories/eyepieces.
Projects: 8" f/2.9 and 65mm f/10 reflectors, Dobson-style binocular mirror mount.
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
I use an 0.5x Antares /StarBru wrote: ↑Sat Jul 10, 2021 4:13 am I have an old Meade 2045-D 102mm f/10 SCT that I was not really happy with until I bought a Meade 6.3 focal reducer. So maybe a focal reducer will make a small difference in finding and observing DSO's through your 127mm MAK!
I once owned an old spur-geared C8 SCT that was a nice all around scope, I should have never sold it. If I remember right, it did a pretty good job with DSO's.
Scopes: Refs: Orion ST80, SV 80EDA f7, TS 102ED f11 Newts: AWB 130mm, f5, Z12 f5; Cats: VMC110L, Intes MK66,VMC200L f9.75 EPs: KK Fujiyama Orthoscopics, 2x Vixen NPLs (40-6mm) and BCOs, Baader Mark IV zooms, TV Panoptics, Delos, Plossl 32-8mm. Mixed brand Masuyama/Astroplans Binoculars: Nikon Aculon 10x50, Celestron 15x70, Baader Maxbright. Mounts: Star Seeker IV, Vixen Porta II, Celestron CG5
- Vern
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Re: Aperture to see DSOs as more than smudges
Wouldn't a focal reducer give me a smaller image in my eyepiece? Would it also be dimmer?
Right now it is light so late that I don't use my telescope much. Yesterday last light was 9:58pm eastern daylight saving time and it was still light enough at 10:20pm that I couldn't see M13. It doesn't help that we have had lots of rain and the mosquitoes are everywhere, even in the daytiime.
When I saidDSOs I mean globular clusters and galaxies, not open clusters.
Right now it is light so late that I don't use my telescope much. Yesterday last light was 9:58pm eastern daylight saving time and it was still light enough at 10:20pm that I couldn't see M13. It doesn't help that we have had lots of rain and the mosquitoes are everywhere, even in the daytiime.
When I said
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