DSLR Modding And Filter Requirements

[Juno16]

Good Morning Everyone!

I have a question for the folks who use modified DSLRS. I am considering having my Nikon D5300 modded soon. I am considering the types of modifications, H alpha or full spectrum. This camera will be used for AP only.
I have read that certain types of filters are needed for AP with particular dslr mods.
Is an UV/IR filter required with a full spectrum mod to control star bloat?
Any filters required for h alpha mods?

If filters are recommended, will I be able to image without filters and what are the negatives?

I’m just trying to decide. I’m good for a $275 camera mod, but if a $200-$300 filter is also required, I might have to reconsider or postpone the idea.

Thanks for any direction that you can offer.

Jim

[Peppy]

Hi Jumo I have both (H-alpha and full spec) the H-alpha does not require a filter, but the full spec does.
The full spec needs the UV/IR for refractors but does not need any for reflectors.
I am sure someone will have a more detailed answer for you soon.

[yobbo89]

what are these terms of "dslr ha mod" and "dslr full spectrum mod" too much lingo gumming up what it really is. usually you just remove a dslr internal low pass filter and add a cheap 2'' $30 uv/ir cut off onto your 2'' t ring adapter or use a wider band ha filter , when someone says full spectrum i assume they mean total bayer removal., i guess that one is called a ''mono mod''

If it's just the low pass filter removed for the " full spectrum mod" and not the bayer well i guess its kinda full spectrum but not on ever pixel...

The only real reason for the need to go internal clip in filters is if you're imaging with dslr lenses .

you'll want a uv/ir cut of for a reflector as well if you don't want those wavelengths in your images,with a refractor there is a bigger need for it, you'll get a lot of bloat.

i missed the word astro mod!

[Juno16]

Hi Jumo I have both (H-alpha and full spec) the H-alpha does not require a filter, but the full spec does.
The full spec needs the UV/IR for refractors but does not need any for reflectors.
I am sure someone will have a more detailed answer for you soon.

Thanks Peppy!

That’s a big help! I’ve read that for full spectrum mods, the filter is needed and now you have confirmed that. I now need to look into which mod is right for me.

I definitely want to keep costs down somewhat. I have been imaging with an I modified camera for about a year and want to start including ha emission nebula into the mix.

Do you prefer one mod over the other?

Thank you very much for the info,

Thanks ,
Jim

[Juno16]

what are these terms of "dslr ha mod" and "dslr full spectrum mod" too much lingo gumming up what it really is. usually you just remove a dslr internal low pass filter and add a cheap 2'' $30 uv/ir cut off onto your 2'' t ring adapter or use a wider band ha filter , when someone says full spectrum i assume they mean total bayer removal., i guess that one is called a ''mono mod''

If it's just the low pass filter removed for the " full spectrum mod" and not the bayer well i guess its kinda full spectrum but not on ever pixel...

The only real reason for the need to go internal clip in filters is if you're imaging with dslr lenses .

you'll want a uv/ir cut of for a reflector as well if you don't want those wavelengths in your images,with a refractor there is a bigger need for it, you'll get a lot of bloat.

i missed the word astro mod!

Sorry for not being more descriptive.

I appreciate your information. I thought about doing it myself, but decided that I like this camera too much to chance anything.

I didn’t know that complete bayer removal was possible!

So, any idea what the real difference is between h alpha and full spectrum modification would mean for Astro imaging? My goal is to image ha nebula like the NA, Rosette, California, and to capture more of the background ha in other types of dso’s.

A $30-$60 screw in UV/IR cut filter is no big deal if the full spectrum mod is better at imaging dso’s

Thanks a bunch for the insight!
Jim

[pmwolsley]

Jim,
About two years ago I had my D5300 Ha modified at Kolari Vision. I have imaged the North American and California Nebulae...amongst others...and had no issues pulling out deeper colours. I certainly see an improvement in how much Nebulosity I can capture. I don't use any filters on my 8" EdgeHD (I don't have any means of installing a filter on it). The same is true for my 80mm refractor. Be sure to re-acquire your DARKs, BIAS etc. libraries once the camera is modded.

Peter

P.S. I also bought "hot mirror" filters for my portrait and zoom lens. These allow me to continue using the D5300 for birthdays, weddings etc. I believe they were $75 each.

[yobbo89]

I checked that camera mod site out, Don't be fooled by that marketing, the h alpha mod doesn't look like to include an h alpha filter, It seems to be just a uv cut off filter. Showing 400 to 700 mm range

And the full spectrum mod is just a clear lense so you can add a certain uv bandwidth filter of your choice later.

No idea why you would need a clear lense after removing a low pass, maybe to give the chip some extra protection, even though they are already poted in a protective layer.

I wounder if those filters/clear lense go over where the low pass was and not just a clip in. Idealy the full spectrum might be better choice if you want to use a lp or ha filter and don't want to stack up on uv/ir blocking.not that it will cause any huge problems.and would be cool to play around with some daytime imaging with ir filters. I don't see any practicality doing ir planetary imaging on a dslr though or in general deep space objects.

You can use the " ha alpha " mod as a regular day time camera with colour balance as it blocks ir, uv

[pmwolsley]

Jim,
When I had my D5300 modded it did not interfere with the autofocus of the camera but it did eliminate the dust-off feature of the camera. Because I bought the "hot mirror" filters at that same time, the company also programmed the camera with a custom whitebalance so that taking birthday pics with the hot mirror filter on the lens would have the correct colours.

Peter

[goldstar]

I performed my own complete full spectrum mod.( Not de-Bayering. That is a different affair and one which I would never attempt!)
After this , what you do as regards in-lining , clip in, becomes your choice as to what to insert, whether UV-IR cut, CLS, narrow band, UHC etc, etc.
The full spectrum (nothing in front of the sensor) mod opens up ALL the possibilities and choices.

[Juno16]

Jim,
About two years ago I had my D5300 Ha modified at Kolari Vision. I have imaged the North American and California Nebulae...amongst others...and had no issues pulling out deeper colours. I certainly see an improvement in how much Nebulosity I can capture. I don't use any filters on my 8" EdgeHD (I don't have any means of installing a filter on it). The same is true for my 80mm refractor. Be sure to re-acquire your DARKs, BIAS etc. libraries once the camera is modded.

Peter

P.S. I also bought "hot mirror" filters for my portrait and zoom lens. These allow me to continue using the D5300 for birthdays, weddings etc. I believe they were $75 each.

Hi Peter,

Very good to hear that!

I was looking at Life Pixel for the mod. I have heard many good things about them.

After what I am hearing, the Ha mod looks like the way to go.

Are you possibly the same Peter Wolsley that I have chatted with on the OpenPHD site?

Thanks,
Jim

[Juno16]

I checked that camera mod site out, Don't be fooled by that marketing, the h alpha mod doesn't look like to include an h alpha filter, It seems to be just a uv cut off filter. Showing 400 to 700 mm range

And the full spectrum mod is just a clear lense so you can add a certain uv bandwidth filter of your choice later.

No idea why you would need a clear lense after removing a low pass, maybe to give the chip some extra protection, even though they are already poted in a protective layer.
M
I wounder if those filters/clear lense go over where the low pass was and not just a clip in. Idealy the full spectrum might be better choice if you want to use a lp or ha filter and don't want to stack up on uv/ir blocking.not that it will cause any huge problems.and would be cool to play around with some daytime imaging with ir filters. I don't see any practicality doing ir planetary imaging on a dslr though or in general deep space objects.

You can use the " ha alpha " mod as a regular day time camera with colour balance as it blocks ir, uv

Hi yobbo89,

I appreciate the info.

What camera site were you referring to? Please PM me if you want to.
I get what you are saying about the Uv cutoff. I definitely don’t want to be restricted to 400-700 nm.

Thanks,
Jim

[Juno16]

I performed my own complete full spectrum mod.( Not de-Bayering. That is a different affair and one which I would never attempt!)
After this , what you do as regards in-lining , clip in, becomes your choice as to what to insert, whether UV-IR cut, CLS, narrow band, UHC etc, etc.
The full spectrum (nothing in front of the sensor) mod opens up ALL the possibilities and choices.

Thanks goldstar,

I am using a Nikon D5300 which does not use clip in filters unfortunately.

Yes, I’m sure that there are more options with the full spectrum mod.

I checked out the mod for my Nikon and it looks like more of a pia than most Canons. Several points on the PC board must be desoldered.

I really like the camera, so I’ll play it safe and have a service perform the conversion.

Thanks for your helpful information!

Thanks,
Jim

[pmwolsley]

Jim,
About two years ago I had my D5300 Ha modified at Kolari Vision. I have imaged the North American and California Nebulae...amongst others...and had no issues pulling out deeper colours. I certainly see an improvement in how much Nebulosity I can capture. I don't use any filters on my 8" EdgeHD (I don't have any means of installing a filter on it). The same is true for my 80mm refractor. Be sure to re-acquire your DARKs, BIAS etc. libraries once the camera is modded.

Peter

P.S. I also bought "hot mirror" filters for my portrait and zoom lens. These allow me to continue using the D5300 for birthdays, weddings etc. I believe they were $75 each.

Hi Peter,

Very good to hear that!

I was looking at Life Pixel for the mod. I have heard many good things about them.

After what I am hearing, the Ha mod looks like the way to go.

Are you possibly the same Peter Wolsley that I have chatted with on the OpenPHD site?

Thanks,
Jim

Jim,
I'm the same guy. The PHD Guiding site is very active.

Clear Skies
Peter

[SkyHiker]

I performed my own complete full spectrum mod.( Not de-Bayering. That is a different affair and one which I would never attempt!)
After this , what you do as regards in-lining , clip in, becomes your choice as to what to insert, whether UV-IR cut, CLS, narrow band, UHC etc, etc.
The full spectrum (nothing in front of the sensor) mod opens up ALL the possibilities and choices.

Thanks goldstar,

I am using a Nikon D5300 which does not use clip in filters unfortunately.

Yes, I’m sure that there are more options with the full spectrum mod.

I checked out the mod for my Nikon and it looks like more of a pia than most Canons. Several points on the PC board must be desoldered.

I really like the camera, so I’ll play it safe and have a service perform the conversion.

Thanks for your helpful information!

Thanks,
Jim

Hey Jim,

If you like your D5300 so much then just keep it and get a 2nd hand body on Ebay, they are dirt cheap for $200. Add the $275 for LifePixel and it's really not worth losing any sleep over.

Good luck!

[yobbo89]

I checked that camera mod site out, Don't be fooled by that marketing, the h alpha mod doesn't look like to include an h alpha filter, It seems to be just a uv cut off filter. Showing 400 to 700 mm range

And the full spectrum mod is just a clear lense so you can add a certain uv bandwidth filter of your choice later.

No idea why you would need a clear lense after removing a low pass, maybe to give the chip some extra protection, even though they are already poted in a protective layer.
M
I wounder if those filters/clear lense go over where the low pass was and not just a clip in. Idealy the full spectrum might be better choice if you want to use a lp or ha filter and don't want to stack up on uv/ir blocking.not that it will cause any huge problems.and would be cool to play around with some daytime imaging with ir filters. I don't see any practicality doing ir planetary imaging on a dslr though or in general deep space objects.

You can use the " ha alpha " mod as a regular day time camera with colour balance as it blocks ir, uv

Hi yobbo89,

I appreciate the info.

What camera site were you referring to? Please PM me if you want to.
I get what you are saying about the Uv cutoff. I definitely don’t want to be restricted to 400-700 nm.

Thanks,
Jim

The life pixel site is what I was referring to.

[Juno16]

Hey Jim,

If you like your D5300 so much then just keep it and get a 2nd hand body on Ebay, they are dirt cheap for $200. Add the $275 for LifePixel and it's really not worth losing any sleep over.

Good luck!
[/quote]

Hey Henk,

Actually, EBAY is where I got this one a few months ago. It was in the mid $200 range and had <2k shutter clicks. I also have a D3300 (has the same Sony sensor as the D5300) that works pretty much as well as the D5300 except that that D3300 isn’t supported by sdk and thus any imaging app besides DigicamControl. I have gotten quite fond of Astrophotography Tool.

I am patiently waiting for the mod as a Christmas present and I am just trying to learn and decide which mod is the best for me.

No big rush, I am fine shooting unmodified, but I think that modding will open up more imaging opportunities.

So far I’m leaning towards the Ha mod by Life Pixel.

Thanks,
Jim

[Larry 1969]

I was just going to ask a similar question Jim.
I have a full spectrum modified Canon T3i and I recently did an experiment.
I shot NGC 7331 with my Astronomik CLS-CCD clip in filter and with no filter at all.
There was certainly more detail without the filter and the histogram in DSS looked better with no stretching.
However, there was an 80% moon and my image looked pretty washed out. StarTools did a nice job bringing out the image.
I'm wondering if an IR / UV filter may be in order?

Any thoughts on the Astronomik L1 clip in? It can be had for $100. I might just have to give it a try.
If things don't work out, it'll be listed on CN......

Larry

[Juno16]

I was just going to ask a similar question Jim.
I have a full spectrum modified Canon T3i and I recently did an experiment.
I shot NGC 7331 with my Astronomik CLS-CCD clip in filter and with no filter at all.
There was certainly more detail without the filter and the histogram in DSS looked better with no stretching.
However, there was an 80% moon and my image looked pretty washed out. StarTools did a nice job bringing out the image.
I'm wondering if an IR / UV filter may be in order?

Any thoughts on the Astronomik L1 clip in? It can be had for $100. I might just have to give it a try.
If things don't work out, it'll be listed on CN......

Larry

It’s hard not to tap into this huge knowledge database when you have questions!

The good folks that responded to this thread said that such a filter is needed for a full spectrum mod (to prevent/reduce star bloat). I am still looking at the type of mod that I want and have been toying with the idea of modding my D5300 myself.

My choices for a clip in are greatly reduced from yours (Nikon), so, if I go with full spectrum (maybe even naked sensor), I will need a 2” UV/IR cut filter to use with my t-ring adapter.

Hopefully, someone will respond concerning the Astronomic L1. For $100, it sounds like a good investment.

Thanks,
Jim

[Juno16]

I was going to image tonight for the last time before modding.

Bad skies!

Camera is packaged up to be shipped to Life Pixel for an h-alpha mod in the morning. Can’t wait!

Jim

[SkyHiker]

I was going to image tonight for the last time before modding.

Bad skies!

Camera is packaged up to be shipped to Life Pixel for an h-alpha mod in the morning. Can’t wait!

Jim

Yay! Good move.