80mm vs 250mm

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Thefatkitty Canada
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80mm vs 250mm

#1

Post by Thefatkitty »


Friday night (Oct 4) was fairly clear here. Also the temps are dropping, which makes being outside comfortable. Nice to finally wear track pants and a t-shirt without sweating into my eyepieces and getting eaten by skeeters :D

I went outside at 8:30PM, dressed in the above, with the temperature a balmy 54F. Nice. I could take a whole summer of that. I brought out my 80mm on its CG4, 10" dob, and a little Towa 3" I picked up some time ago. The Towa was amazing for what it is. I put a 1.25 focuser on it, and with my Fujiyama KK's the view was just stunning, albeit a bit small.

I did a tour of the eastern sky with all three scopes as the Moon moved out from behind the tree to the south. At about 10PM and 50F, I tried for some pics of the rock with my 80mm. Those came out pretty good, then I looked over at my 10". I wonder....
Well of course it won't come to focus with my DSLR, at least not with the 2" extension tube and the 2" to 1.25 adapter on top of that. However, I found that if I took the extension tube and adapter out, I could just lay the camera on the focuser (holding onto it, of course), line up the camera with the secondary, and by turning the focuser out a bit, the Moon snapped into focus.
I should probably take pics to better explain what I mean; if you want I can provide some :D

Anyways, I took about 20 pics like that. I didn't have the remote shutter connected to the camera at that point, which would really have been the idea. And holding the camera still wasn't easy as well, it kept sliding around. By now the temp was 48F, and I was thinking it might be time to swap the T for a sweater. Ah, it was damp out as well, and at midnight it started raining.

So here is my point. I thought the pics with the 10" would be a lot larger than the ones in my 80mm. But I forgot about focal ratio's. The 80mm is f/11.4, whereas the 10" is f/4.9.
I used the same processing settings for both in PIPP, making the output frame size to be 2400 X 2400.

This is the 80mm:


80th_ImPPG.png

And this is the 10":


10.png

Not a huge difference, size wise, and the frac has more detail, but the camera was solidly mounted to it. Not so the 10".... :lol:

I did the math, and I'd have to cut 2 inches off the back of the 10" to move the mirror up for DSLR focus. Eyepiece focus wouldn't be an issue as I have another 2" extension tube. The scope is a bit of a rat as well, so I'm certainly not worried about looks.
Those of you on here that know me well also know I'd have no issues about doing this either ;)

The question is: Should I? It would take about an hour to do, and I have everything I need waiting to go. But I'm wondering if I'm overlooking anything regarding using it after for visual. Would an extra 2 inches on the focuser narrow the field of view dramatically? I don't need it to be as narrow as my Towa 3"... :lol:

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! :text-thankyouyellow:


All the best,
Mark

"The Hankmeister" Celestron 8SE, orange tube Vixen made C80, CG4, AZ-EQ5 and SolarQuest mounts.
Too much Towa glass/mirrors.

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H/A - PST stage 2 mod with a Baader 90mm ERF on a Celestron XLT 102 (thanks Mike!)
Ca-K - W/O 61mm, Antares 1.6 barlow, Baader 3.8 OD and Ca-K filters with a ZWO ASI174mm.
W/L - C80-HD with Baader 5.0 & 3.8 Solar film, Solar Continuum 7.5nm and UV/IR filters with a Canon EOS 550D.
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Juno16 United States of America
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Re: 80mm vs 250mm

#2

Post by Juno16 »


Hi Mark,

No idea what you should do with the 10”, but the image from the 80mm sure looks nice.

I love your temps! We had a ‘cool’ 70 degrees yesterday morning that felt good.

Thanks,
Jim
Jim

Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), ZWO OAG, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, ASI 220mm mini , IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
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Re: 80mm vs 250mm

#3

Post by bladekeeper »


The only thing that comes to my mind would be if moving the primary closer by 2" would make the light cone a bit too wide for the secondary, causing a loss of light.

Not sure that would be the case, but might be something to consider. Not even sure how one could determine that. It may be a non-issue. :lol:
Bryan
Scopes: Apertura AD12 f/5; Celestron C6-R f/8; ES AR127 f/6.4; Stellarvue SV102T f/7; iOptron MC90 f/13.3; Orion ST80A f/5; ES ED80 f/6; Celestron Premium 80 f/11.4; Celestron C80 f/11.4; Unitron Model 142 f/16; Meade NG60 f/10
Mounts: Celestron AVX; Bresser EXOS-2; ES Twilight I; ES Twilight II; iOptron Cube-G; AZ3/wood tripod; Vixen Polaris
Binoculars: Pentax PCF WP II 10×50, Bresser Corvette 10×50, Bresser Hunter 16×50 and 8×40, Garrett Gemini 12×60 LW, Gordon 10×50, Apogee 20×100

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Re: 80mm vs 250mm

#4

Post by yobbo89 »


You'll need a bigger secondary.

I would say there are other methodes if you are a tad away from focus you can do without modifying the ota,

Get a low profile focuser, buy long collimation bolts for the primary, use mirror less dslr or mini c mount style cmos camera.
scopes :gso/bintel f4 12"truss tube, bresser messier ar127s /skywatcher 10'' dob,meade 12'' f10 lx200 sct
cameras : asi 1600mm-c/asi1600mm-c,asi120mc,prostar lp guidecam, nikkon d60, sony a7,asi 290 mm
mounts : eq6 pro/eq8/mesu 200 v2
filters : 2'' astronomik lp/badder lrgb h-a,sII,oIII,h-b,Baader Solar Continuum, chroma 3nm ha,sii,oiii,nii,rgb,lowglow,uv/ir,Thousand Oaks Solar Filter,1.25'' #47 violet,pro planet 742 ir,pro planet 807 ir,pro planet 642 bp ir.
extras : skywatcher f4 aplanatic cc, Baader MPCC MKIII Coma Corrector,Orion Field Flattener,zwo 1.25''adc.starlight maxi 2" 9x filter wheel,tele vue 2x barlow .

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JayTee United States of America
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Re: 80mm vs 250mm

#5

Post by JayTee »


Here, give this secondary mirror size calculator a shot and see what you can come up with. Personally, if you have the tools and the gumption make the mod.
http://www.bbastrodesigns.com/diagonal.htm

Cheers,
JT
∞ Primary Scopes: #1: Celestron CPC1100 #2: 8" f/7.5 Dob #3: CR150HD f/8 6" frac
∞ AP Scopes: #1: TPO 6" f/9 RC #2: ES 102 f/7 APO #3: ES 80mm f/6 APO
∞ G&G Scopes: #1: Meade 102mm f/7.8 #2: Bresser 102mm f/4.5
∞ Guide Scopes: 70 & 80mm fracs -- The El Cheapo Bros.
∞ Mounts: iOptron CEM70AG, SW EQ6R, Celestron AVX, SLT & GT (Alt-Az), Meade DS2000
∞ Cameras: #1: ZWO ASI294MC Pro #2: 662MC #3: 120MC, Canon T3i, Orion SSAG, WYZE Cam3
∞ Binos: 10X50,11X70,15X70, 25X100 ∞ AP Gear: ZWO EAF and mini EFW and the Optolong L-eXteme filter
∞ EPs: ES 2": 21mm 100° & 30mm 82° Pentax XW: 7, 10, 14, & 20mm 70°

Searching the skies since 1966. "I never met a scope I didn't want to keep."

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Re: 80mm vs 250mm

#6

Post by redhat »


Hi Thefatkitty,

Check this one out:

https://youtu.be/9d0292TBMHo?t=1211
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Re: 80mm vs 250mm

#7

Post by Don Quixote »


Cool comparison, Mark.
I am glad you could get out there and enjoy the sky !
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Bigzmey United States of America
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Re: 80mm vs 250mm

#8

Post by Bigzmey »


NIce shot from 80mm Mark! I would investigate the issue more before taking your 10" to the saw. I feel you will introduce undesired vignetting and loss of light by messing with light train this way. Low profile focuser is better way to go.
Scopes: Stellarvue: SV102ED; Celestron: 9.25" EdgeHD, 8" SCT, 150ST, Onyx 80ED; iOptron: Hankmeister 6" Mak; SW: 7" Mak; Meade: 80ST.
Mounts: SW: SkyTee2, AzGTi; iOptron: AZMP; ES: Twilight I; Bresser: EXOS2; UA: MicroStar.
Binos: APM: 100-90 APO; Canon: IS 15x50; Orion: Binoviewer, LG II 15x70, WV 10x50, Nikon: AE 16x50, 10x50, 8x40.
EPs: Pentax: XWs & XFs; TeleVue: Delites, Panoptic & Plossls; ES: 68, 62; Vixen: SLVs; Baader: BCOs, Aspherics, Mark IV.
Diagonals: Baader: BBHS mirror, Zeiss Spec T2 prism, Clicklock dielectric; TeleVue: Evebrite dielectric; AltairAstro: 2" prism.
Filters: Lumicon: DeepSky, UHC, OIII, H-beta; Baader: Moon & SkyGlow, Contrast Booster, UHC-S, 6-color set; Astronomik: UHC.
Solar: HA: Lunt 50mm single stack, W/L: Meade Herschel wedge.

Observing: DSOs: 3106 (Completed: Messier, Herschel 1, 2, 3. In progress: H2,500: 2180, S110: 77). Doubles: 2437, Comets: 34, Asteroids: 257
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Re: 80mm vs 250mm

#9

Post by SkyHiker »


If that 10" does not track, the only thing you can image is the Moon. So why not use a 2x Barlow and stitch with ICE? That will save you the trouble of cutting off a piece of tube for something that you may only do a few times.

Otherwise, how about replacing the screws with longer ones? I did that and was able to get focus with my mirror-less DSLR. Not sure how much you need.
... Henk. :D Telescopes: GSO 12" Astrograph, "Comet Hunter" MN152, ES ED127CF, ES ED80, WO Redcat51, Z12, AT6RC, Celestron Skymaster 20x80, Mounts and tripod: Losmandy G11S with OnStep, AVX, Tiltall, Cameras: ASI2600MC, ASI2600MM, ASI120 mini, Fuji X-a1, Canon XSi, T6, ELPH 100HS, DIY: OnStep controller, Pi4b/power rig, Afocal adapter, Foldable Dob base, Az/Alt Dob setting circles, Accessories: ZWO 36 mm filter wheel, TV Paracorr 2, Baader MPCC Mk III, ES FF, SSAG, QHY OAG-M, EAF electronic focuser, Plossls, Barlows, Telrad, Laser collimators (Seben LK1, Z12, Howie Glatter), Cheshire, 2 Orion RACIs 8x50, Software: KStars-Ekos, DSS, PHD2, Nebulosity, Photo Gallery, Gimp, CHDK, Computers:Pi4b, 2x running KStars/Ekos, Toshiba Satellite 17", Website:Henk's astro images
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