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So I have two sets of images of M27. The same OTA and Focal reducer but two different cameras - although both are un-modded Canon EOS 1100D. I have full sets of flats and darks from each set of lights and they are largely the same orientation/framing etc.
Is it possible (or worthwhile) to stack these altogether in DSS - I'm guessing you'd do them in different "group" tabs but can seem to work out how to do that.
Any suggestions?
Rgds
David
Scope: Skywatcher Evostar 80ED (SW 0.85 FR/FF) on a SW NEQ6Pro
Guiding; SW Evoguide 50ED, ASI 120mm mini
Meade 8" LX200 GPS on wedge (Guided with a cheapo 50mm guidescope and a ZWO ASI 120mm mini)
Sharpstar 61EDPH II (with dedicated 0.8 reducer) with wiliam Optics 32mm uniguide
Camera: ASI2600MC pro. QHY 163M with ZWO 7nm NB filters, Canon EOS700D astro mod
Secondary mount: Skywatcher StarAdventurer
I have done so with two asi 1600's, and using full stacks from different seasons, ie like 3 hrs of ha from last year and 2 hrs another year of already calibrated data with no problems, i think as long as you keep everything separated then it should be fine ie you stack the data of one camera with it's darks lights flats and then the other camera with it's darks lights flats then combine the two.
I don't know if this is a good way to do so, someone pls correct.
i'll add as well, some people will stack a little of red channel data with their ha to balance out their lum channel, so it seems to be working with mixing and matching in deep sky stacker or other software,
weather it's worthwhile or contains problems, i don't know you'll have to experiment and find out yourself
scopes :gso/bintel f4 12"truss tube, bresser messier ar127s /skywatcher 10'' dob,meade 12'' f10 lx200 sct
cameras : asi 1600mm-c/asi1600mm-c,asi120mc,prostar lp guidecam, nikkon d60, sony a7,asi 290 mm
mounts : eq6 pro/eq8/mesu 200 v2
filters : 2'' astronomik lp/badder lrgb h-a,sII,oIII,h-b,Baader Solar Continuum, chroma 3nm ha,sii,oiii,nii,rgb,lowglow,uv/ir,Thousand Oaks Solar Filter,1.25'' #47 violet,pro planet 742 ir,pro planet 807 ir,pro planet 642 bp ir.
extras : skywatcher f4 aplanatic cc, Baader MPCC MKIII Coma Corrector,Orion Field Flattener,zwo 1.25''adc.starlight maxi 2" 9x filter wheel,tele vue 2x barlow .
Calibrate them first separately, find a registration frame and then stack.
Personal equipment: TEC 140 F7 on Astro-Physics Mach 1 mount. Camera QSI 683ws7. Guide with Vario guiding scope
Shared equipment through Star Shadows Remote Observatory through PROMPT/ CTIO/Chile 16" RCOS 16803 chip
Shared equipment through San Diego Astronomy Society 14" RC with 16803 chip on a paramount
Software (for my stuff) PemPRO, SGP, PHD, Focus Boss, ASCOM, and Pixinsight on the other end.
Astro Pixel Processor has that function. I've been using APP for the stacking and calibration phase of my processing workflow for close to a year. I still use photoshop for the final processing, but it does a great job of stacking, noise reduction, color calibration, and light pollution removal. Here is a link to a tutorial where they took images from five different sources to create one final image.
Cameras: Canon T3,6D Mark II
Telescopes: Explore Scientific ED80, ED102, Celestron C6
Lenses: Rokinon 24mm 1.4, Canon 70-200mm L, 17-40mm EF
EPs: lots of choices.
Mounts: CGEM, SkyGuide Pro
Accessories and DoDads: Too many.
I did a bit of reading and it turns out this is easy to do in DSS - simply put each data set - lights and calibration frames in their own "group" tab and DSS will apply the calibration frames to the appropriate lights then register and stack them all together. Easy Peasy!
So I did that with two data sets, from consecutive nights and with different EOS 1100D cameras and, after processing, got the image below. I had previously posted my image from only one set of data and this one has about 50 % more integration time (45 X 60s against 30 X 60s) There is definitely more detail in the nebula. Still a long way to go though but thats another trick learned! Anyone know a trick to get rid of that blotchy sky?
Scope: Skywatcher Evostar 80ED (SW 0.85 FR/FF) on a SW NEQ6Pro
Guiding; SW Evoguide 50ED, ASI 120mm mini
Meade 8" LX200 GPS on wedge (Guided with a cheapo 50mm guidescope and a ZWO ASI 120mm mini)
Sharpstar 61EDPH II (with dedicated 0.8 reducer) with wiliam Optics 32mm uniguide
Camera: ASI2600MC pro. QHY 163M with ZWO 7nm NB filters, Canon EOS700D astro mod
Secondary mount: Skywatcher StarAdventurer
Not a Pi guy. I know a few ways in photoshop though.
Cameras: Canon T3,6D Mark II
Telescopes: Explore Scientific ED80, ED102, Celestron C6
Lenses: Rokinon 24mm 1.4, Canon 70-200mm L, 17-40mm EF
EPs: lots of choices.
Mounts: CGEM, SkyGuide Pro
Accessories and DoDads: Too many.
madperk wrote: ↑Mon Sep 30, 2019 7:31 am
Looks great.
Not a Pi guy. I know a few ways in photoshop though.
Thanks!
Photoshop is what I use so suggestions would be gratefully received!
Scope: Skywatcher Evostar 80ED (SW 0.85 FR/FF) on a SW NEQ6Pro
Guiding; SW Evoguide 50ED, ASI 120mm mini
Meade 8" LX200 GPS on wedge (Guided with a cheapo 50mm guidescope and a ZWO ASI 120mm mini)
Sharpstar 61EDPH II (with dedicated 0.8 reducer) with wiliam Optics 32mm uniguide
Camera: ASI2600MC pro. QHY 163M with ZWO 7nm NB filters, Canon EOS700D astro mod
Secondary mount: Skywatcher StarAdventurer
You can also subtract all your stars from an image and all your left with is nebulostity and background space. Isolate those areas you want to flatten and use a Gaussian blur to smooth the background. Then reapply your stars. I'm still fiddling with this as I only learned about it a few weeks ago.
Cameras: Canon T3,6D Mark II
Telescopes: Explore Scientific ED80, ED102, Celestron C6
Lenses: Rokinon 24mm 1.4, Canon 70-200mm L, 17-40mm EF
EPs: lots of choices.
Mounts: CGEM, SkyGuide Pro
Accessories and DoDads: Too many.
Cameras: Canon T3,6D Mark II
Telescopes: Explore Scientific ED80, ED102, Celestron C6
Lenses: Rokinon 24mm 1.4, Canon 70-200mm L, 17-40mm EF
EPs: lots of choices.
Mounts: CGEM, SkyGuide Pro
Accessories and DoDads: Too many.