Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

#1

Post by SkyHiker »


Encouraged by Joe's (BABOafrica) successful modification I decided to give it another try with an unused Fuji X-a1 in my sock drawer. Last time I tried it, being a typical beginner, I destroyed the LCD ZIF connector and perhaps more. I eventually shipped that victim to Joe who used it for spare parts and a CFA removal test.

This time eventually everything worked out. This is not to say that it was easy. I took my time with everything, following the steps described by LifePixel at https://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/inf ... n-tutorial . BTW if you are thinking about self-modifying a camera, please think again and give LifePixel a thought! They are a great company and do the job for a very fair price, also providing an IR filter for the unwanted longer wavelengths.

The trouble that I experienced were:

1) Discovering how the various connectors work, find out which one flip open and which ones are ZIF. It's not immediately clear but treating a connector the wrong way can be catastrophic.

2) The screws of the sensor were extremely tight. I have a good set of screw drivers but was barely able to get them to open up. Fortunately I got them out without damage.

3) There is a hard rim around the IR filter that was difficult to remove. Eventually I pried it open with a screw creating a lot of small glass splinters in the process. I was able to remove them from the camera and sensor, I think.

4) After my first conversion attempt I was unable to get the battery in the camera! As it turned out I had mixed up one screw and put the wrong one in the battery compartment. I had to go back all the way to removing the main board, including de-soldering the dust sensor. Good grief!

I became more experienced and confident along the way and now would not hesitate to modify yet another Fuji, or other camera described by LifePixel for that matter.

Anyway here's a picture that proves that it works. This was with a zooom lens so the depth of field is limited but there are parts of the picture that are very sharp, which proves that this modification worked pretty darn well!
DSCF1483_small.jpg
One caveat, Joe told me to paint the glass around the sensor black to hide the gold wires that can generate IR radiation according to him. I was in no mood to get a can of paint and risk painting mistakes. We'll see how it turns out.

And of course, the goal that I was contemplating - scraping the CFA off the sensor to get a mono camera - was out of reach for now. But I'm very happpy with my newly modified camera.
... Henk. :D Telescopes: GSO 12" Astrograph, "Comet Hunter" MN152, ES ED127CF, ES ED80, WO Redcat51, Z12, AT6RC, Celestron Skymaster 20x80, Mounts and tripod: Losmandy G11S with OnStep, AVX, Tiltall, Cameras: ASI2600MC, ASI2600MM, ASI120 mini, Fuji X-a1, Canon XSi, T6, ELPH 100HS, DIY: OnStep controller, Pi4b/power rig, Afocal adapter, Foldable Dob base, Az/Alt Dob setting circles, Accessories: ZWO 36 mm filter wheel, TV Paracorr 2, Baader MPCC Mk III, ES FF, SSAG, QHY OAG-M, EAF electronic focuser, Plossls, Barlows, Telrad, Laser collimators (Seben LK1, Z12, Howie Glatter), Cheshire, 2 Orion RACIs 8x50, Software: KStars-Ekos, DSS, PHD2, Nebulosity, Photo Gallery, Gimp, CHDK, Computers:Pi4b, 2x running KStars/Ekos, Toshiba Satellite 17", Website:Henk's astro images
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Re: Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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Post by Juno16 »


Great Henk!

Very exciting. I’m sure that you are looking forward to trying the “new” camera out.

An added bonus is more room in the sock drawer!
Jim

Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
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Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), Orion 50mm Guide Scope, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, Orion SSAG, IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
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Re: Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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Post by BABOafrica »


Congratulations, Henk.

That is GREAT news.

I am so glad it worked out for you.

Joe
"In lumine tuo videbimus lumen."

Scopes: Stellarvue SV80 Raptor Carbon Fiber ED Doublet / Celestron SCT C8
Williams Optics 66mm APO / DIY 8" f/4 Newtonian astrograph / Nikon 180mm f/2.8
Mounts: Orion Atlas EQ-G / Celestron AVX / DIY mini-equatorial
Cameras: QHY163m / Fujifilm X-A1 (modded) / Fuji X-A2 (not modded) / Orion StarShoot Auto Guider
Filters: ZWO 7nm NB set / ZWO LRGB set / ZWO Dual Band / Astronomics UHC
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Re: Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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Post by BABOafrica »


I would be interested to know how it works out, first light image and all that...

Joe / BABO
"In lumine tuo videbimus lumen."

Scopes: Stellarvue SV80 Raptor Carbon Fiber ED Doublet / Celestron SCT C8
Williams Optics 66mm APO / DIY 8" f/4 Newtonian astrograph / Nikon 180mm f/2.8
Mounts: Orion Atlas EQ-G / Celestron AVX / DIY mini-equatorial
Cameras: QHY163m / Fujifilm X-A1 (modded) / Fuji X-A2 (not modded) / Orion StarShoot Auto Guider
Filters: ZWO 7nm NB set / ZWO LRGB set / ZWO Dual Band / Astronomics UHC
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Re: Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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Post by SkyHiker »


BABOafrica wrote: Thu Nov 26, 2020 1:47 am I would be interested to know how it works out, first light image and all that...

Joe / BABO
The weather wasn't too great recently, fog every night. I will try tonight very late since tomorrow is a holiday. I will simply try M42 with both cameras and with both a refractor and a reflector. Theory says that the self modified cam should not work with a refractor because it lacks the long wavelength IR block filter. Was your M42 as sharp as you expected? Lots of nebulosity but it looked a bit blurry, possibly because of that.
... Henk. :D Telescopes: GSO 12" Astrograph, "Comet Hunter" MN152, ES ED127CF, ES ED80, WO Redcat51, Z12, AT6RC, Celestron Skymaster 20x80, Mounts and tripod: Losmandy G11S with OnStep, AVX, Tiltall, Cameras: ASI2600MC, ASI2600MM, ASI120 mini, Fuji X-a1, Canon XSi, T6, ELPH 100HS, DIY: OnStep controller, Pi4b/power rig, Afocal adapter, Foldable Dob base, Az/Alt Dob setting circles, Accessories: ZWO 36 mm filter wheel, TV Paracorr 2, Baader MPCC Mk III, ES FF, SSAG, QHY OAG-M, EAF electronic focuser, Plossls, Barlows, Telrad, Laser collimators (Seben LK1, Z12, Howie Glatter), Cheshire, 2 Orion RACIs 8x50, Software: KStars-Ekos, DSS, PHD2, Nebulosity, Photo Gallery, Gimp, CHDK, Computers:Pi4b, 2x running KStars/Ekos, Toshiba Satellite 17", Website:Henk's astro images
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Re: Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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Post by SkyHiker »


Hi Joe I took some quick images using both cameras without flats. I was surprised how bad the vignetting was without flats. Anyway this is just to compare the cameras so artistry does not matter.

The images look very similar. They consist of 30, 10 and 5 second subs for a total of 265 sec (LifePixel camera) and 265 (self mod camera) at 6400 ISO. The subs also look very similar.
LifePixel-modified camera
LifePixel-modified camera
self-modified camera
self-modified camera
I wanted to compare the cameras with my 80 mm but I found out that I don't have a proper counterweight for it on the Losmandy. While I was messing around with it, I accidentally broke a connector from my OnStep controller and the dew started getting pretty bad so I packed it up. I have a small repair to do tomorrow.

But, the modification works very well. I will try the refractor test later maybe tomorrow with the 127 mm.
... Henk. :D Telescopes: GSO 12" Astrograph, "Comet Hunter" MN152, ES ED127CF, ES ED80, WO Redcat51, Z12, AT6RC, Celestron Skymaster 20x80, Mounts and tripod: Losmandy G11S with OnStep, AVX, Tiltall, Cameras: ASI2600MC, ASI2600MM, ASI120 mini, Fuji X-a1, Canon XSi, T6, ELPH 100HS, DIY: OnStep controller, Pi4b/power rig, Afocal adapter, Foldable Dob base, Az/Alt Dob setting circles, Accessories: ZWO 36 mm filter wheel, TV Paracorr 2, Baader MPCC Mk III, ES FF, SSAG, QHY OAG-M, EAF electronic focuser, Plossls, Barlows, Telrad, Laser collimators (Seben LK1, Z12, Howie Glatter), Cheshire, 2 Orion RACIs 8x50, Software: KStars-Ekos, DSS, PHD2, Nebulosity, Photo Gallery, Gimp, CHDK, Computers:Pi4b, 2x running KStars/Ekos, Toshiba Satellite 17", Website:Henk's astro images
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Re: Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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Post by BABOafrica »


Indistinguishable.

It will be interesting to see a comparison when you use the 127mm.

Many thanks for posting this.

I am really happy you were able to do the mod. It's doable. But, at least in my case, and I think you would admit the same, it's doable after you have a chance to get some practice, which usually means messing up a good camera somewhere along the line.

When it comes to the next -- huge next step -- of trying to remove the microlens layer & the CFA, the logic is probably the same.

So I have two old Canon 450D (Xsi) that cost me a total of $20. I want to experiment with those first before I try with a good Fuji camera.

I'm in the US for a few days visiting my family and then I go back to Kenya next week. I'll work on those Canon cameras when I get back to Nairobi.

Joe
"In lumine tuo videbimus lumen."

Scopes: Stellarvue SV80 Raptor Carbon Fiber ED Doublet / Celestron SCT C8
Williams Optics 66mm APO / DIY 8" f/4 Newtonian astrograph / Nikon 180mm f/2.8
Mounts: Orion Atlas EQ-G / Celestron AVX / DIY mini-equatorial
Cameras: QHY163m / Fujifilm X-A1 (modded) / Fuji X-A2 (not modded) / Orion StarShoot Auto Guider
Filters: ZWO 7nm NB set / ZWO LRGB set / ZWO Dual Band / Astronomics UHC
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Re: Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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BABOafrica wrote: Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:16 pm Indistinguishable.

It will be interesting to see a comparison when you use the 127mm.

Many thanks for posting this.
No problem, I was interested myself. The story of that night after I took those images was rather laughable. After taking these Mak-Newt images I realized I needed to take flats but that would mean pointing the scope at the wall. I normally do that manually so I would lose my alignment. Of course I could have - should have used the goto then I can just go back to the target. Stupid me. So I decided not to take flats.

Then I took the counterweight off as I wanted to put the frac on it. I tightened the clutches hoping that the stepper motors would have enough torque to stay in place. Forget it, of course. With the counterweight off the scope just started sliding. What I should have done is move the scope back to the home position before doing that. Stupid again. So I had lost my alignment.

I took the Mak Newt off put the 80 mm frac on and found that the counterweight was way too heavy so I just used the counterweight bar for a counterweight. I wanted to use the Telrad to get back to Orion manually but of course it did not fit (normally I just use a rubber band, no Telrad base, which always works). I messed around with it for quite a while until I realized that actually, an 80 mm frac is just a glorified viewfinder.

So I put the 30 mm eyepiece in it and sure enough I got the target right back. I started taking images to frame the target and all the time it seemed as if my mount did not track. Was it the balance? After wasting quite a bit of time I finally noticed that the RA motor cable had disconnected, probably while I was messing with the counterweight, putting it so close to the mount that while turning it flipped the cable out of the RJ45 connector... amazing how many crucial mistakes I made in quick succession! Never too old to learn.
BABOafrica wrote: Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:16 pm I am really happy you were able to do the mod. It's doable. But, at least in my case, and I think you would admit the same, it's doable after you have a chance to get some practice, which usually means messing up a good camera somewhere along the line.
Once you know what connectors to flip open, have a spudger available for that, and use clear tape to pull ribbon cables back into the ZIF connectors, it all works. It is probably normal to destroy the camera the first time around without an experienced person looking over your shoulder.
BABOafrica wrote: Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:16 pm When it comes to the next -- huge next step -- of trying to remove the microlens layer & the CFA, the logic is probably the same.

So I have two old Canon 450D (Xsi) that cost me a total of $20. I want to experiment with those first before I try with a good Fuji camera.

I'm in the US for a few days visiting my family and then I go back to Kenya next week. I'll work on those Canon cameras when I get back to Nairobi.
Please take pictures when you do that. After I had removed the IR filter there appeared to be yet another glass layer further inside between me and the sensor though I'm not quite sure. Can you confirm that, or was I looking at the Bayer array? I saw zero texture so it looked like glass to me but there really should be no more glass, I think.

Before I try it I need to know how you achieved it, and make sure that I can find a DSLR filter wheel or else it will have been useless. Changing it manually will be too much work in the long run.
... Henk. :D Telescopes: GSO 12" Astrograph, "Comet Hunter" MN152, ES ED127CF, ES ED80, WO Redcat51, Z12, AT6RC, Celestron Skymaster 20x80, Mounts and tripod: Losmandy G11S with OnStep, AVX, Tiltall, Cameras: ASI2600MC, ASI2600MM, ASI120 mini, Fuji X-a1, Canon XSi, T6, ELPH 100HS, DIY: OnStep controller, Pi4b/power rig, Afocal adapter, Foldable Dob base, Az/Alt Dob setting circles, Accessories: ZWO 36 mm filter wheel, TV Paracorr 2, Baader MPCC Mk III, ES FF, SSAG, QHY OAG-M, EAF electronic focuser, Plossls, Barlows, Telrad, Laser collimators (Seben LK1, Z12, Howie Glatter), Cheshire, 2 Orion RACIs 8x50, Software: KStars-Ekos, DSS, PHD2, Nebulosity, Photo Gallery, Gimp, CHDK, Computers:Pi4b, 2x running KStars/Ekos, Toshiba Satellite 17", Website:Henk's astro images
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Re: Self-modified Fuji X-a1 success

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Post by BABOafrica »


SkyHiker wrote: Sat Nov 28, 2020 5:29 pm
BABOafrica wrote: Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:16 pm Indistinguishable.

It will be interesting to see a comparison when you use the 127mm.

Many thanks for posting this.
No problem, I was interested myself. The story of that night after I took those images was rather laughable. After taking these Mak-Newt images I realized I needed to take flats but that would mean pointing the scope at the wall. I normally do that manually so I would lose my alignment. Of course I could have - should have used the goto then I can just go back to the target. Stupid me. So I decided not to take flats.

Then I took the counterweight off as I wanted to put the frac on it. I tightened the clutches hoping that the stepper motors would have enough torque to stay in place. Forget it, of course. With the counterweight off the scope just started sliding. What I should have done is move the scope back to the home position before doing that. Stupid again. So I had lost my alignment.

I took the Mak Newt off put the 80 mm frac on and found that the counterweight was way too heavy so I just used the counterweight bar for a counterweight. I wanted to use the Telrad to get back to Orion manually but of course it did not fit (normally I just use a rubber band, no Telrad base, which always works). I messed around with it for quite a while until I realized that actually, an 80 mm frac is just a glorified viewfinder.

So I put the 30 mm eyepiece in it and sure enough I got the target right back. I started taking images to frame the target and all the time it seemed as if my mount did not track. Was it the balance? After wasting quite a bit of time I finally noticed that the RA motor cable had disconnected, probably while I was messing with the counterweight, putting it so close to the mount that while turning it flipped the cable out of the RJ45 connector... amazing how many crucial mistakes I made in quick succession! Never too old to learn.
BABOafrica wrote: Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:16 pm I am really happy you were able to do the mod. It's doable. But, at least in my case, and I think you would admit the same, it's doable after you have a chance to get some practice, which usually means messing up a good camera somewhere along the line.
Once you know what connectors to flip open, have a spudger available for that, and use clear tape to pull ribbon cables back into the ZIF connectors, it all works. It is probably normal to destroy the camera the first time around without an experienced person looking over your shoulder.
BABOafrica wrote: Sat Nov 28, 2020 12:16 pm When it comes to the next -- huge next step -- of trying to remove the microlens layer & the CFA, the logic is probably the same.

So I have two old Canon 450D (Xsi) that cost me a total of $20. I want to experiment with those first before I try with a good Fuji camera.

I'm in the US for a few days visiting my family and then I go back to Kenya next week. I'll work on those Canon cameras when I get back to Nairobi.
Please take pictures when you do that. After I had removed the IR filter there appeared to be yet another glass layer further inside between me and the sensor though I'm not quite sure. Can you confirm that, or was I looking at the Bayer array? I saw zero texture so it looked like glass to me but there really should be no more glass, I think.

Before I try it I need to know how you achieved it, and make sure that I can find a DSLR filter wheel or else it will have been useless. Changing it manually will be too much work in the long run.
Sounds like you had one of "those nights" when Murphy attacks. At least ended up with some light frames.

I'll try to document what I do when I work on the Canon DSLR.

The Fuji X-A1 (or X-A2) sensor piece, as removed from the camera, has many parts. The Lifepixel tutorial fails to point out that you have to remove 3 screws that are on the back of the sensor, which allows you to separate the piece into two parts--one being the sensor proper and the other being the holder for the filter & dust plate.

When you are holding the sensor proper, you see the (very thin) clear glass covering that is glued over the CFA to protect it. The glue is some kind of epoxy.

Joe
"In lumine tuo videbimus lumen."

Scopes: Stellarvue SV80 Raptor Carbon Fiber ED Doublet / Celestron SCT C8
Williams Optics 66mm APO / DIY 8" f/4 Newtonian astrograph / Nikon 180mm f/2.8
Mounts: Orion Atlas EQ-G / Celestron AVX / DIY mini-equatorial
Cameras: QHY163m / Fujifilm X-A1 (modded) / Fuji X-A2 (not modded) / Orion StarShoot Auto Guider
Filters: ZWO 7nm NB set / ZWO LRGB set / ZWO Dual Band / Astronomics UHC
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